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Bind Your Own Book at Home: A Beginner's Guide

Last Updated: August 19, 2023 Fact Checked

Binding with Tape

Using ribbon, sewing the binding, single sheet binding, things you'll need.

This article was co-authored by wikiHow staff writer, Dev Murphy, MA . Dev Murphy is a wikiHow Staff Writer with experience working as a teacher, ghostwriter, copyeditor, and illustrator. She loves writing how-to articles because she loves learning new things and because she believes knowledge should be free and accessible to the world. Dev's creative writing and visual art have been featured in many venues online and in print. When she is not writing for wikiHow, she is drawing pictures, making perfume, or writing hybrid poems. Dev earned her MA in English Literature from Ohio University in 2017. She lives in Pittsburgh with her cat, Nick. There are 12 references cited in this article, which can be found at the bottom of the page. This article has been fact-checked, ensuring the accuracy of any cited facts and confirming the authority of its sources. This article has been viewed 1,212,915 times. Learn more...

Do you want to start a scrapbook, nature journal , or diary ? You can, of course, buy a suitable book at the store, but if you really want to make it your own, perhaps it's time to rediscover the not-quite-lost art of bookbinding. If you’re not sure where to begin, it’s easier than you think, and you can bind your own book today using materials that you likely already have around the house. Keep reading to learn different bookbinding methods, from the simple to the more complex.

Things You Should Know

• To bind your book with tape, first staple the pages along the crease, and then reinforce the staples with a strip of linen tape or cotton tape . For a thick book, use several layers of tape.
• If you want to bind with ribbon, punch holes every 1 ⁄ 4 inch (0.64 cm) along the edge of the pages. Thread a piece of ribbon in and out of each hole and secure it with a knot.
• Sew your book together by marking 5 equally spaced dots along the crease with a pencil, and then using a needle and thread to pierce the holes and sew the binding on.
• If you have too many pages to fold crisply, try creating packets of signatures. A signature is a group of 4 sheets folded down the center. [1] X Research source
• Most books are folded hamburger style (i.e., by folding the shorter ends of the paper together), but you can fold however you want.
• If you made signatures, staple each signature separately and then stack your stapled signatures. Leave the stack unstapled.

• If you’re binding a book of material printed from Microsoft Word, make sure your pages have a “gutter” margin of about 1 ⁄ 2 inch (1.3 cm) before you print them. The gutter margin is the inside margin, the margin that will be partially obscured when the book is bound. [4] X Research source
• Avoid using masking tape or clear tape. These tapes won't be strong enough to support your book.
• If your book is thick, leave a larger margin of tape so you have enough tape to cover the spine and still reach the other side.
• Use your fingers to press the tape around the book’s spine so that it covers both the bottom of the book, the spine, and the top of the book.
• If your book has many pages or several signatures, you might want to tape it more than once to reinforce it. Repeat the process of taping the book until the book’s binding feels secure.
• Avoid folding leftover tape over the book, as this may make your book harder to open. Trim any excess tape.

• If you want to bind a page that doesn’t have a margin, you could either paste the page into a larger page with an adequate margin, or “build” a wider margin by gluing or taping a strip of paper to the inner edge of the page.
• If you’re having trouble measuring and hole-punching at the same time, mark where the hole should be with a pencil before hole punching.
• You can also choose to draw a thick line with pen or permanent marker if you want the line to remain on the cover.
• Consider measuring and marking the spots with your pencil prior to punching the holes, for accuracy.
• To make sure your pages don't slip out of place while you punch your holes, clamp them together with binder clips or clothespins.
• Choose a simple black tape for a classic look, or go for a colorful design if you want something more personalized.
• If your ribbon isn’t long enough, remove it and cut a longer piece.
• Looping the ribbon a second time reinforces the binding. Depending on how many pages you have, loop it a third time for an even stronger binding.

• It’s common to fold your pages hamburger style—i.e., fold the 2 short ends together—but fold your book however you wish!

• For example, if you have a paper that’s 8.5 by 11 in (22 by 28 cm) printer paper, dividing that by 6 gives you 1.4 inches (3.6 cm), meaning you'd space your holes 1.4 inches (3.6 cm) apart.
• If you know your page measurements, you don’t have to measure. If you don’t know, or if you’re not using a standard page size, make sure you measure precisely.
• For example, if you have a paper that’s 8.5 by 11 inches (22 by 28 cm), your first dot will be 1.4 inches (3.6 cm) from the edge. Then, each progressive dot will be 1.4 inches (3.6 cm) up from the previous dot. Your fifth dot should be 1.4 inches (3.6 cm) away from the top of the page.

• If you don’t have an awl, you can use a large needle.
• You can use whatever color thread you like, but remember your thread will be visible!
• You can tie whatever knot you’d like as long as it firmly keeps the sewing in place.
• In single sheet binding, you don’t fold your pages like you do for other bookbinding methods, but this means that you run the risk of the stitching tearing out of your pages if they are not reinforced well enough.
• You can use thick cardstock or thick cardboard as your cover.
• Perform this same process on the front and back covers as well.

• Use this same process to pierce holes in your front and back covers.
• If you have 20 pages, and your area is 2.25 inches (5.7 cm) long, you will need 45 inches (110 cm) of thread for each thread.
• Once you’ve tied the knot, you can trim off the end and tuck it in for a cleaner look.
• When threading the needle under the first loop you made, make sure you go under both threads, not through the loop.

• If you want to give your book some whimsy, choose a different color thread for each binding hole, or keep all of the thread colors the same for a more uniform style.
• For a sturdier book, loop your needle and thread around the stitch below the page you’re currently working on, starting on the third page.

Community Q&A

• Linen tape or cotton tape
• Scissors or X-ACTO knife
• Hand-held hole-puncher

Mastering Single Sheet Binding

• 6 binding needles
• 2 hard boards (such as cardstock or cardboard)

You Might Also Like

• ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xF3P8bI_MNM&feature=youtu.be&t=29
• ↑ http://www.readwritethink.org/files/resources/printouts/HowToBindBook.pdf
• ↑ https://www.firstwriter.com/layout/margins.shtml
• ↑ https://www.ibookbinding.com/blog/bookbinding-supplies-and-materials/
• ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04vt8YfT7XM&feature=youtu.be&t=59
• ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04vt8YfT7XM&feature=youtu.be&t=110
• ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04vt8YfT7XM&feature=youtu.be&t=132
• ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04vt8YfT7XM&feature=youtu.be&t=175
• ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04vt8YfT7XM&feature=youtu.be&t=211
• ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04vt8YfT7XM&feature=youtu.be&t=220
• ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04vt8YfT7XM&feature=youtu.be&t=261
• ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04vt8YfT7XM&t=338s

About This Article

To bind a book, start by folding your pages in half and stapling them together at the folded crease. Then, cut a piece of binding tape that's about 2 inches longer than your book and lay it sticky-side up on a flat surface. Next, line up the creased edge of your book with the center of the tape and press your book down into the tape. Finally, wrap the other half of the tape around your book's spine and then cut off any excess tape at the top and bottom. To learn how to bind a book using ribbon or thread, scroll down! Did this summary help you? Yes No

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The Perfect Guide to Bookbinding for Beginners 

As an artist, in any form, an integral tool to keep on hand would be a sketchpad, or for some, a notebook would suffice. Painters, writers, and illustrators alike can use this tool.

Additionally, they can keep a collection of their work bound together for display or as a private keepsake. You can also use this method for other things, such as a school project, a journal , or a collection of poems.

Bookbinding is another age-old practice used by creators throughout the centuries. They bound or sewed books together, as the name suggests. Yes! That is all there is to it. It is not scary or daunting; anyone, including you, can learn to do it. Its related fields are gilding and fine binding.

Some of the first examples of bookbinding in history appeared in India. People there used large dried leaves to write their documents. They appeared around 100 BCE – long before the invention of print books.

There’s no need to seek out the services of a printing press. Now you can do your own scrapbook or journal. Interested in becoming a DIY bookbinder?

Here is a quick, easy, step-by-step guide to everything you need to know. It’s DIY bookbinding for beginners! Learn basic bookbinding at your own pace.

What Do You Need to Start Bookbinding? 

Before beginning the search, it is essential to remember to start small. Another key point is that bookbinding is irreversible.

As a matter of fact, ensure that you are comfortable with the idea that your first few tries may get damaged. Until you are comfortable enough, practice your new skills on scrap. 

Supplies 

Here is a checklist of basic tools needed. 

• Paper (obviously) 
• Bone Folder 
• Book Awl 
• Marker/pen 
• Waxed thread (linen)
• Needle 
• Cutting board

Ensure you have all items ticked off before moving on to the step-by-step tutorial. 

Each tool above serves its own unique purpose in bookbinding. And yes, those are some funny named tools (take it as a sign you’ll be having fun). Here are some details that make things a little easier for you: 

A bone folder is a tool with a dull edge that will help you fold and/or crease your material. 

A book awl is a tool used to punch holes in your material. This is a sharp tool, so proceed with caution! 

Waxed linen thread can be store-bought. Or, you can create your own using beeswax and embroidery thread. 

How do you book bind DIY? 

Following the steps below, anyone can become a DIY bookbinding pro! Ensure you have gathered all the materials (you can pay a visit to  Amazon ).

Furthermore, you can always check your local craft store. No worries if you don’t have such a store in your neighborhood. At least you can use high-quality copier paper for your first few projects, or if it’s a journal, notepaper. 

Now that you’ve gathered all your material, it’s time to start. 

Can I bind a book myself? 

Of course, you can. Bookbinding, though daunting to think about, is quite simple. Take all the time you need. Do not rush it. This is an art, and art takes time. 

What Are the Different Methods for Book Binding? 

Bookbinding is an art that goes far back in history. As early as the 9th century, the first bound books appeared. THAT WAS A REALLY LONG TIME AGO! More than a millennium has passed.

What’s more, we’re talking actual books, not the bound leaves from India. With it, many versions and techniques of bookbinding developed. 

With that in mind, many different bookbinding methods have emerged. In fact, some of our faves are: 

Case Binding 

Perfect binding , saddle stitch binding , comb and spiral binding .

• Exposed Spine Binding

Each is unique, yet they all achieve one goal. 

Case binding is the most secure and protective of techniques. By the same token, these bindings, characterized by their hardcovers, are pretty standard. Yes, those.

With this technique, the pages are glued to the spine of the book. An encyclopedia is an excellent example. If you’ve ever held an encyclopedia, then I’m almost certain you’ve held a case-bound book. 

Moreover, this technique is the one of choice for many books. It tricks many people into thinking that the book in question is an excellent read. For a good reason, they are more durable, and these factors also make them more expensive. 

Due to the higher cost, many people would be less willing to select this technique. Yet, it adds further durability to secure the longevity of the tome. The hard covers also make the books heavier. 

Nonetheless, this technique is superior if you want your books to last long. 

This is the cheapest most DIY bookbinding technique on this list. This one is for you if you are here for the easy way out. These are two different techniques, so don’t get them mixed up, but they are at the same time quite like each other. 

Comb Binding:  With this technique, you will need to punch along one of the edges. Or, to save time, you can buy a  comb binding machine . Then, thread the comb through the same holes, and voila! Easy peasy, lemon squeezy. 

Spiral Binding:  Again, we begin with the punched holes. They are what make the two techniques similar. But rather than threading a comb, bookbinders use  individual coils.  

These coils are made of different materials (sometimes plastic, sometimes metal). The spiral notebook you used in junior high is the best example we can think of.

These methods are quick, easy, and effective, but only last for so long. The pages of a book or journal held together in this manner tend to fall out pretty fast.

They also are more susceptible to tearing. These kinds of books scream DIY project. Thus, this option may not be the best fit if you don’t want your project to look self-published. These techniques also generally are not accepted by major retailers for distribution. 

The good thing is, if none of those things matter to you, then you have saved loads on production costs. 

Perfect Hobby For You:

• Polymer Clay
• Needle Felting
• Wood Burning
• Collage Art

Perfect binding is a cheap alternative to case binding. This technique may be the most common. It is the ideal compromise between durability and cost-effectiveness.

The perfect method uses heavyweight coated cardstock. It’s not as durable as the case binding technique. Yet it is cheaper, lighter, and protects your folded papers. It is, after all… PERFECT! 

We stick the folded pages of books bound using this technique with strong glue. Here’s a handy  spine calculator  to tell you how thick the spine on your project should be.

This technique has two variations. One involves stapling and is the midrange, cost-effective alternative to the perfect method.

The best time to use this technique is for creating books that you intend to have a short life span. This technique would also come in handy for projects with very few pages. 

This technique is the simplest one yet. All it entails is stacking the pages correctly and stapling the intended spine.

This technique has limits. It depends on both the strength and the size of the staples used. For instance, you can easily use cardstock or anything a staple can pierce for the book cover. 

The other variation of saddle stitching is the thread-sewn method. It involves folding each sheet and sewing the pages together with waxed thread. The thread-sewn process is perfect for DIY projects.

What are the 2 Types of Book Binding Used the Most? 

Well, the short answer is ALL OF THEM. You must find the use case that suits your needs the most. Case binding and perfect binding are more popular for retail purposes.

For example, most commercial binders or printers use one of these techniques. The perfect binding method is the most common. Yet, that does not mean they outshine any other technique.

Comb & Spiral Binding and Saddle Stitch Binding are great for creating DIY projects. In addition, they’re the favorites of students working on term papers and dissertations alike.

They use these techniques to put their assignments together to hand in for grading. These also show up in instruction manuals, and even company documents.

You might also want to consider it for your journal. In other words, there is no correct answer. Instead, use the resources that work best for you. 

Basic book Binding Process Step by Step. 

Here are the basics of binding your own book. Even better, I will tell you two different ways of creating bound books on your own. You’re welcome! 

It would be best to know how to create a “quote, unquote” DIY type book and a more professional type of book. 

Continue on to learn the basics of the spiral binding. I’ll also teach you the saddle stitch Binding technique. 

Spiral Binding

Step 1: Make the Cover

Get two pieces of cardboard and cut them down to the size you want. You can use the cardboard from a cereal box or the back of a notepad. Chipboard can also work.

Step 2:  Wrap the cardboard with colorful paper.

This paper should be one inch longer and wider than the cardboard base. You can use construction paper or even gift wrap. Design it how you wish with a drawing or computer graphics. Make the front fancy, with an image or a title.

Step 3:  Stick the paper onto the cardboard.

Turn it so that the blank side is facing you. Brush a thin layer of liquid glue onto the cardboard and make sure you center it. If needed, smooth it down with a credit card or ruler. Work your way from the middle to the outsides.

Step 4:  Clip the corners of the paper.

Use a craft blade and metal ruler to cut off the corners. Clipping the corners helps to remove bulk so that your work lies smoother.

Step 5:  Cut paper for the inside covers.

Cut two sheets half-inch shorter than your cover on each side. If you have a fancy cover, try a plain inside, and vice versa. Glue it to the back of the cardboard to partly overlap the wrapped edges.

Consider sealing the front and back covers with acrylic spray sealer. Or, you can use another sealant such as topcoat or decoupage glue. Note that the ink may run if you decorated your project, so be careful.

Step 6:  Cut the paper down to the same size as the covers.

You can use up to 40 sheets. If you’re using thick stock, avoid cutting more than 40 sheets. If you cut more than that, you will need to make a bigger coil, which is more likely to warp out of shape.

Step 7:  Create your template and punching guidelines.

Use a ruler and pencil to draw a line about 2 mm from the edge of the paper. Or, if you prefer, you can do it on the top edge.

In that case, make the mark along that edge. Using a 3 mm hole puncher or screw punch, or even a thin nail, punch it at intervals spaced 2 mm apart. Leave some space (5 mm or so) at the top and bottom.

To clarify, you shouldn’t use a regular hole puncher: it’s too big. Use your template to guide you as you punch all your other sheets of paper.

Step 8:  Use the template to punch the two covers.

Lay it on top of your front cover. Create the holes, and use the template to repeat this step for the back.

Step 9:  Assemble the book.

Rest the back cover facedown. Stack the pages on top, ending with the front cover, face up.

You can put other items into your books at this point, such as sticker sheets and foldouts.

Tap the book on the table to align everything, particularly the holes. Secure the pages and the covers with binder clips.

Step 10 : Prep your wire.

Wrap some stringing wire around a pen (the thicker the pen, the better). Sixteen gauge works well. Match it to the number of holes in your paper. For example, if you punched 18 holes, wrap it 18 times.

Use wire cutters to get rid of the excess. Pull the wire off the pen and stretch it until it’s around the same length as your book.

Pass the wire through each hole, then bend the wire inwards. Use needle-nose pliers to hook the end on the coil (for reference, you can look at a spiral-bound notebook). Repeat on the other end.

Congratulations! You’ve spiral-bound your first book.

Saddle-Stitch Binding

Step 1:  Fold the paper in half one at a time.

Calculate how many pages you need, and fold each one in half. Folding it one sheet at a time creates a clean, sharp fold for your book.

Use a bone folder to lay each piece flat at the fold. A credit card or ruler can also work to give the folded paper a crisp edge.

Step 2:  Open out the papers.

Using a sewing needle, prick some holes along the paper fold. Don’t poke willy-nilly – use a ruler to measure, create even spacing, and mark where the holes should be.

Each sheet should have the same number of holes and the same spacing between these holes. We recommend spacing them between half an inch and one inch.

As you create more and more books, you can change the placement of your binding threads as you like.

If you want to spice up the spine, you can add items to the threading as you bind your book. Make a stack of these papers, aligning the holes.

Step 3:  Cut some thread double the book’s length.

Thread the sewing needle, tying the end into a knot. Starting at the far end of the paper, drive the sewing needle through the stack of paper.

Pull-on the thread till the knot reaches the other side of the hole. Pull it through the next hole, but opposite to the first.

Continue to thread in this alternating pattern. Do it until you reach the very last hole.

Step 4 : Thread toward the opposite side.

Using the same alternating pattern, thread through the holes again but, this time, do it in the opposite direction.

Once you’re done, tie another knot in the line. Finish off by cutting any excess thread.

Again, congrats! Now you know how to saddle-stitch a book. Life is good!

Book Binding Tutorials 

Below are video tutorials for you to watch, which showcase the book binding process. Again, say it with me this time: EASY PEASY LEMON SQUEEZY! 

I’ve included videos on  spiral binding  and  saddle stitching . I hope they will make these processes more straightforward.

Best bookbinding books to look into. 

It may seem a bit corny, but yes, there are books on how to create a book. Great self-promotion, too, if you ask me. Here is a list of all our faves and a link to get them at your fingertips. 

• Making Handmade Books: 100+ Bindings, Structures & Forms
• Hand Bookbinding: A Manual of Instruction
• Little Book of Book Making: Timeless Techniques and Fresh Ideas for Beautiful Handmade Books

We would love to see how your binding projects turned out. Send us a pic in the comments section, and let us know how easy (or difficult) it was for you.

1 thought on “The Perfect Guide to Bookbinding for Beginners ”

I’ve written a story for my niece. Now, I have 75 individual sheets of paper that I need to bind together. How do I do that to make a long-lasting hard cover book?

For the cover, I removed the pages from a 100-page hard cover book. I plan to insert my pages into the spine.

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Step-by-Step DIY Book Binding: How to Bind a Book at Home

If you’re a self-published author and you dream of seeing your own work in print, you need to learn about DIY book binding. Creating a book through the art of book binding takes fragmented pages and ideas and turns them into a single object that can be easily distributed and used to drive your brand forward and attract a fan base.

In this guide, we’re going over everything to know about DIY book binding, including various book binding techniques and how to get started. Ready to get started? Let’s dive into how to bind books!

Looking to order the perfectly bound book? Print Bind Ship offers professional book binding and printing services to ensure you get the perfect copy. Get in touch for a free quote!

What Is DIY Book Binding?

DIY book binding is the process of creating a bound book yourself, without relying on a professional printing or book binding service . It can be a rewarding and creative way to produce your own customized books. Whether you want to craft a unique journal, cookbook, booklet, or photo album, DIY book binding lets you tailor your book to your specific needs and style.

3 Steps for DIY Book Binding

There are many different methods for making books, some of which can be accomplished with just a few special tools and a few hours of your time. However, if you want to scale your bookmaking, it’s best to work with a company that has the team and tools to create hardcover, softcover, or spiral-bound books.

Step 1. Decide on a DIY Book Binding Method

There are a few different book binding methods out there and the one you choose may depend on the size, content, and purpose of your book. For the most part, the three most common DIY book binding methods are saddle stitch, perfect binding, and saddle binding. Each technique produces a different type of book spine. Take a look.

1. Saddle Stitch

Saddle stitch binding involves folding a stack of pages in half and sewing them together along the fold. It is a cost-effective and popular technique that works best for thinner books or booklets.

Saddle-stitched books are cost-effective and quick to make, though they don’t last as long as other book types. The finished product is lightweight and can stay flat when opened, which is suitable for cookbooks, calendars, catalogs, and even comic books.

2. Perfect Binding

You’re likely quite familiar with the look of perfect binding, which is another way of describing softcover or paperback books. Perfect-bound books are also relatively inexpensive and offer an attractive way to display your work. However, the spine and cover of perfect-bound books can be damaged.

This method works best for thick books with a higher page count, such as paperback novels, coffee table books, or instructional manuals. The finished product has a professional look and can lay flat, making it easy to read.

3. Spiral Binding

Spiral binding or wire binding, uses a wire or plastic coil that is threaded through a series of punched holes along the spine of a book.  This bookbinding method is easy and low-cost to print, even in small amounts. This technique works well for notebooks, sketchbooks, journals, and manuals as it allows for easy page-turning and folding. Saddle binding also provides a durable, long-lasting binding that can withstand frequent use.

Step 2: Gather Your DIY Book Binding Supplies

When you’re setting out to DIY book binding by hand, there are a few standard instruments you’ll need to have around. You may consider purchasing a book binding kit or looking into each tool on its own. Either way, these items tend to be easy to find, and some book binding tools may even be available on Amazon Prime !

• Glue — Glue could be used to attach the cover of your book to the spine or create the cover itself. Many opt for pva glue along with a glue brush.
• Ruler — Look at any book you own, and you’ll be hard-pressed to find any part of it that isn’t precisely measured and cut. You can make sure your own homemade book looks just as precise by having a quality ruler that’s sturdy enough and long enough for your book project.
• Paper Cutter —  An awl, and bone folder are helpful tools for achieving clean and precise finished products. An X-Acto knife is another tool that can allows you to get accurate cuts.
• Cutting Mat — To save your tables and counters from damage, you’ll also want to invest in a cutting mat that’s made to protect anything it’s lying on top of. Self-healing cutting mats are helpful as they’re specifically designed to withstand lots of use.
• Pencil — A pencil is great to have on hand to indicate where you need to cut or create holes.
• Paper — You can’t make a book without paper, so you’ll need to have a good amount of it. If you’re creating a blank notebook , you can use just about any paper, even patterned varieties. If you’re binding your own work, you’ll need to have it in a printed format.

Step 3: Methods for How to Bind a Book At Home

The process for DIY book binding can vary depending on the type of book binding technique you’ve chosen. To keep things simple, we’ve broken down how to bind a book according to 3 different methods.

Saddle Stitching

For a saddle-stitched book, you’ll need most of the common items reviewed above, plus an awl or another tool for cutting holes, a needle and thread, binding clips, and wax. With your materials gathered, here is the general process:

• Compile all the pages of your book into one bundle and top them with the cover.
• After making sure the stack is neat, secure all the pages with the clips.
• Next, mark the spine of the book right down the middle of the stack of paper.
• With your pencil, create five marks on the line you just created and use your tool of choice to puncture holes on each of these marks.
• Take thread that you’ve already waxed and insert it into your needle before sewing through the holes you created. You’ll use a saddle stitch for this step.
• Finally, fold your book in half along the spine you created and sewed. Cut off any excess paper on your book if desired.

View this full tutorial and learn how to do a saddle stitch on Bookbinding Workshops Singapore .

Perfect Binding

In addition to some of the common materials mentioned earlier, you may need some bookbinding clips and a bone scorer or bone folder, which is a tool that helps you fold paper.

• The first thing you’ll do is assemble all your pages by folding a larger piece of paper in half and cutting them to make individual pages. This step is where you’ll use the bone scorer.
• Once you have all your pages, you’ll secure them together with your clips.
• Next, apply glue all over the side of your book that will be the spine. Spread multiple layers as needed and let dry completely.
• You can create the cover as the glue is drying. For a stiffer cover, use cardstock or another heavier paper. You will need a back, a front, and a thin piece of material to cover the spine.
• You’ll use these pieces, along with more decorative paper and some blank endpapers, to make the whole cover.
• Once the cover is assembled, you’ll glue your book inside, placing it under something heavy as it dries.

Spiral Binding

Spiral-binding books is easier with a machine, but it can be done by hand, as this tutorial shows.

• First, make the cover out of cardboard cut to desired dimensions. Leave the cover bare or cover it with decorative paper.
• Next, assemble your inner pages, keeping the total number to around 40 pages maximum for the best quality.
• Using your ruler and pencil, indicate a line that you’ll use as a guide for punching holes.
• Use a hole-punching tool to create closely-spaced holes along this line on all of your sheets of paper and the front and back covers.
• Once your pages are all hole-punched, gather and align all the pieces and clip them firmly on all sides but the spine.
• Create a spiral of wire by coiling it around a pen or another long, thin implement.
• Lastly, weave your pages together with the wire and fold over the ends of the wire to secure it.

For more detailed instructions, view this tutorial on wikiHow .

How to Print and Bind Books with Print Bind Ship

When you’re ready to scale your book production beyond just a few handmade items, you can reach out to a company such as Print Bind Ship to explore printing and book binding services.

Print Bind Ship is an experienced third-party logistics provider (3PL) that offers businesses a range of services from printing and book binding to packaging solutions and global shipping.

For self-published authors, in particular, Print Bind Ship can help to boost your brand, improve customer loyalty, and increase sales opportunities through hardcover and softcover book printing, custom packaging, subscription boxes, and more.

Book Editing, Shipping, and More

With a company like Print Bind Ship, you can have a partner in the entire process of book creation, including formatting, printing, binding, and beyond .

The book creation starts with your completed, edited manuscript. While proper formatting is a best practice before you send your work to a printer, a company such as Print Bind Ship can assist with formatting and work with you to finalize the product before printing.

You’ll have multiple options for binding your book, including some of the methods we’ve discussed in this article, but the company you work with to bind your book should be able to advise you on the best strategy for your project. Print Bind Ship is here to do exactly that!

Plus, if you work with a company that only does bookbinding, you may need to handle the distribution yourself. When you work with a 3PL like Print Bind Ship, books can be printed on demand and shipped globally.

Custom Packaging and Subscription Boxes

Think of famous authors and the branding of their book series. You’d recognize the Harry Potter branding a mile away—and the same goes for many other popular authors. This is just one reason it’s crucial for you as an author to have a solid brand that extends beyond just the covers of your books.

Custom labels and packages that coordinate instead of clashing with your brand can make you stand out in a crowded marketplace. When people receive a package from you with custom printing on it, they’ll begin to associate your brand with an attractive design. Not only that, but your customer’s friends and neighbors will also notice and begin to recognize your branding.

Print Bind Ship: Your Expert Resource for Bookbinding

Taking yourself seriously as a self-publishing author is a big step. Ultimately, becoming a self-publishing author means investing in products and partnerships that will further your personal brand.

If you’re still wondering how to get started, Print Bind Ship has experts that can help. You can discuss your bookbinding, how to bind books, and your printing needs as well as other services that could promote your new project.

Take advantage of our free consultations and get in touch today. Happy publishing!

There are numerous types of paper you can use for DIY book binding. Regular copier paper, construction paper, gloss paper, matt paper, handmade paper, and more. The possibilities are endless and the choice is up to you!

It’s best to wait at least a couple of hours to ensure the glue is fully dry before moving on to the next step in the DIY book binding process.

You’ll need paper, a measuring tape or ruler, glue, x-acto knife, cutting matt, and pencil. You should be able to find all the materials you need for DIY book binding at your local arts and crafts store.

To bind a book at home, gather your pages, align them evenly, apply glue along the spine, and secure them tightly with clamps. Once dry, cover the spine with fabric or paper for a finished look.

Common book binding methods include saddle stitching for pamphlets, perfect binding for paperbacks, and Smyth sewing for durable hardcovers, each suited to different types of publications.

More From All Resources

Guide to real estate postcards for direct mail, targeted mailing lists: mailing list service by print bind ship, wood business cards: order and print online, ebooks vs. printed books: is book printing worth it, get a quote.

Get a free quote, learn how you can scale your business, cut unnecessary costs, and be confident in your fulfillment.

How to bind a book: a 10-step guide

Karen Lewis explains how to bind a book using some cost-effective binding and stitching techniques.

In today's creative environment, where promotional material is routinely sent in the form of a digital file via email, a handmade self-promotional book can make a cost-effective, personal and unique alternative to help you stand out.

In this InDesign tutorial , I'll explain how to bind a book in a few easy steps. We'll cover some important tips for setting up page spreads and cover templates in Adobe 's InDesign , as well as the essential tools and techniques you need to bind your own books. If you need any bookbinding materials, a good source is Shepherds Falkiners . You'll also find an illustrated diagram of the sewing technique we used to make this project in the support files, to aid you as you go.

• Software: InDesign CS3 or later
• Skills: Create page templates in InDesign, perfect your binding and stitching techniques
• Download the support file here

01. Set up template

First, set up your book's page template in InDesign by creating a new document. The page size, columns and margins will depend on your preference, but remember to add an extra 10mm to the inside margin (to accommodate the stitching) and a 3mm bleed if you intend to print to the edge of the page. Also, make sure the Facing Pages box is ticked so you can view your design as a spread.

02. Print the pages

When you're ready to print, export your document as a PDF and, under Marks and Bleeds, tick Crop Marks, and Use Document Bleed Settings. The pages need to be printed double-sided – either via your printer settings or by manually printing all odd pages, then all evens.

Experiment with paper stocks to see which works best. With the pages in the correct order, draw a line on the top page to mark the top and bottom between the crop marks, and use a scalpel to cut through the inner page crop marks closest to the spine.

Depending on the number of pages and paper stock you use, you can cut through multiple pages at a time. If you have lots of pages, divide them into sections and mark the top of each section.

03. Prepare for stitching

Draw a line from the top to the bottom of the page, 5mm in from the spine – this is where the pages will be stitched. Along that line, mark a dot 10mm from the top and one 10mm from the bottom, then put some evenly spaced dots in between these. I created three holes spaced apart by roughly 5cm, but the number of holes you need will vary, depending on the height of your page.

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Tap the top of the pages against a flat surface to ensure they are flush, lay them flat and pierce through the dots carefully, using a bookbinding awl. Keep the awl as straight as possible when piercing through the pages to make it easier to sew.

04. Start stitching

To stitch the pages, use a bookbinding needle and linen thread, four times the page height. Thread your needle, piercing the thread 1cm from the end and pulling tight instead of tying a knot.

Starting at the middle hole, push the needle up through the back of your pages, leaving a 10cm loose thread remaining. Go around the spine and back up through the same hole, holding the loose thread to keep the pages tight.

Go to the next hole in either direction, thread your needle down, around and back up through, then along to the next hole. Repeat this process to the end, then weave the thread back along the length to the centre, ensuring it runs along the length of the spine on both sides.

At the middle hole, repeat this process along the second half of the book. End back at the middle hole and tie off using the loose thread. Cut off any remaining thread about 1cm from the knot.

05. Glue the spine

You're now ready to glue the spine. Place your book between two clean boards - or a couple of heavy books - to press your pages flat, making sure the spine sticks out a little. With a paintbrush, paste the spine with a fine layer of PVA glue (thinned with a dash of water) and leave it for 20 minutes to dry.

Make sure the glue doesn't collect around the edge of the pages, as this may stop them opening properly. When the spine is dry, remove it from your DIY bookpress and use the scalpel to trim off the excess paper beyond the crop marks.

Next page: the final five steps...

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Book Design Made Simple

You can do it yourself.

Book binding basics

July 12, 2021 By Glenna Collett 5 Comments

Book binderies can be separate entities but are usually integrated with a book printing company. And in some instances, printing and binding are done right inside the same machine.

Hard cover book binding (casebound books)

With offset and most digital book printing, the printing is done on large sheets and then folded into 4, 8, 12, 16, 24, or even 32 pages, depending on the machinery, the paper stock, and the trim size of the book. The end result is a booklet called a signature , with all the pages in order. It’s quite ingenious.

One sheet is printed on both sides, folded, and trimmed to become a signature (16 pages in this instance).

The little collation marks at the back edge of each signature should line up as shown here in red.

Your book might end up with a few or dozens of signatures, so in order to collate them properly, a small marker is printed on the back side of each one. (Even more ingenious.) The signatures are then lined up into a “book block” for binding, smashed together with a weight, and trimmed to achieve neat outer edges.

Basically, stitching a book binding is the traditional method and is very durable. It’s done in two different ways.

Smyth (pronounced like “smith” but with a long i sound) sewing involves stitching from the middle of each signature to the outside and then over to the center of the next signature in a kind of looping motion. This results in a nice, easily-opened book and a flexible spine. The signature block can be glued to the inside of the spine or not—no glue results in a book that will stay open on its own (a “layflat” book).

Smyth sewing (left) goes from the center of each signature to the center of the next, making a more flexible binding. The thread or staples in side (or McCain) stitching goes right down through all the signatures at once. This makes a sturdier binding.

Here’s how all the parts are put together in a casebound book.

Side (or McCain) stitching is often used for books that are destined to a hard life, such as library editions, children’s books, and textbooks. The signatures are gathered and then sewn or stapled from the side rather than through the folds (see above).

The endpapers are attached to the first and last pages of the book block with a thin vertical line of glue near the stitching, and then the back edge of the book block (plus endpapers) is wrapped with a cloth (the “backing material” in the illustration).

The wrap for the hard case can be cloth or a printable material. Wrapping the plain, foil stamped, or printed case is a separate operation. Once the wrapped case and the book block come together, the endpapers are glued to the inside of the case, leaving two free pages that are called the flyleaf. Sometimes a headband and tail band are added.

In the lower book, the backing material that wraps around the book block is glued to the spine. The upper book lays flat because the book block is free of the spine. Both books have headbands, though the black and white one is more noticeable.

A flexible hard cover can also be made with the same book binding equipment. Instead of a thick, stiff cardboard case, a thinner one is used. This results in a book that looks just like a hard cover one but that’s also bendable. This is called flex binding.

Soft cover book binding

Once you know how hard covers are put together, you’ll quickly catch on to the concept of paperback book binding. The method is called perfect binding; I’m not sure how it got this laudatory name, as paperbacks used to fall apart quite easily. Perfect binding has come a very long way, though, and actually is nearly perfect these days.

First the signatures are chopped at the back end, then glue is applied.

Basically, after the printing is done the signatures are gathered into a block just as for a casebound book. Then the signatures are smashed, the folds are simply chopped off, and the back edge is flooded with glue. After drying, this glued edge is usually adhered to the paper spine, but if not, then the result is a layflat paperback. After this, the entire book is trimmed to a nice smooth edge.

Two different kinds of glue can be used in the binding. EVA (ethylene vinyl acetate) and PUR (polyurethane reactive). The EVA is more traditional and costs less; the PUR is stronger and thus requires that less be used. This results in a book with a squarer spine that doesn’t crack when the book is opened. PUR may cost a little more.

A layflat perfect binding (top) and a more common type of perfect binding. You can clearly see where the first and last pages are adhered to the covers in both books.

Espresso Book Machine book binding

The Espresso Book Machine at Village Books in Bellingham, WA.

An Espresso Book Machine (EBM) combines printing and binding all in one place. Some libraries and book stores own one for customers to print their own copies of out-of-print books or books they’ve written themselves. It’s hard to believe, but yes, you can give the machine two PDF files (one for the cover and one for the pages), and a perfect-bound copy will come out in just a few minutes.

Some POD printers also use the EBM. But most these days also use a more elaborate digital printer that resembles an enormous copier. They bind the books separately.

Other types of binding

In Book Design Made Simple, and also in a previous blog post, we described other interesting book binding methods . Check them out; one of them might be perfect for your book.

We believe that all publishers should understand how their books will be put together. Knowledge is power!

Read more: Digital vs. offset printing » shows the pros and cons of each. Read more: How much does it cost to self-publish? » includes all the various expenses including printing and binding.

Book Design Made Simple. You can do it yourself.

November 9, 2021 at 11:07 am

I found it interesting when you talked about different types of book binding techniques. Recently, one of my cousins said she’s interested in learning how to bind a book or a daily planner. My cousin mentioned she’d like to learn how to make a book by hand and use a binding machine too, so I’ll be sure to share your tips with her. Thanks for the advice on how there are soft and hard covers for book binding.

November 9, 2021 at 1:03 pm

Hi Eli, Hand book binding is a popular craft these days, and if she can find a good class to take, she will discover a huge number of ways to go about it. The variety of book binding styles is pretty amazing. And yes, some of them do involve machines. Glenna

November 15, 2021 at 4:49 am

Hi again Eli, I meant to send your cousin to this article that Fiona wrote about handmade books: https://www.bookdesignmadesimple.com/book-arts-handmade-books/ She might find it inspiring. Glenna

July 13, 2021 at 12:35 pm

Thank you. Very interesting.

[…] you’re looking for a more durable and professional option, consider hardcover binding. Also known as case binding, this method involves attaching your book’s pages to a rigid […]

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Popular bookbinding techniques in a nutshell

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Are you struggling to decipher Japanese stab, Coptic, and perfect bookbinding techniques? Man, I can relate.

At first, it seemed as if all bookbinding styles were  way  too similar, making each method difficult to tell apart. In hindsight, I think part of the challenge was all of the scattered information on the subject. Also, no YouTube back then!

That said, I’ve created this frill-free guide, including bite-sized explanations as well as the pros and cons of popular bookbinding techniques every beginner should know of!

Affiliate disclosure: Articles on Tiny Workshops may contain affiliate links.

Bookbinding techniques

Keep reading to learn about some of the most popular bookbinding techniques every bookbinder, beginners and up, needs to know about!

Looking for more beginner-friendly resources? Check out our guide to bookbinding for beginners and our other bookbinding guides and tutorials .

1. Saddle Stitch binding

Also known as staple binding , booklet binding , fold/staple binding .

• Quick and cheap
• Excellent for small booklets and magazines
• Pages lay flat when open
• Not suited for a large number of pages
• Spines aren’t very durable
• Lining up staples requires practice

Saddle stitch binding is a simple and cost-effective method that involves folding sheets of paper in half and stapling them along the folded edges.

This is a very beginner-friendly technique because it’s quick and easy and only requires a few materials, such as paper, a bone folder , and a stapler.

But while all about simplicity, this doesn’t mean you can’t mix things up by adding colorful paper, cardstock, ribbons, beads, and more. The main challenge of this technique is aligning staples evenly, so be sure to practice before taking on your final projects!

2. Perfect binding

Also known as adhesive binding , soft cover binding , and paperback binding .

• Ideal for medium-weight projects
• Professional-looking finishes
• Time-consuming but easy to do
• Not as durable as hardcover binding
• Pages may fall out over time
• Not ideal for very thin or very thick books

Perfect binding uses glue to assemble pages and attach them to book spines. You can spot this technique on softcover paperback books, magazines, catalogs, and more.

In this case, binding requires bookbinding glue and, ideally, a bookbinding press to ensure glued pages dry in place. If you don’t have a bookbinding press, don’t worry; you can DIY alternatives, whether a stack of heavy books or even clothes pins!

Mastering perfect binding requires a steady hand for glue application, neat trimming, and aligning pages. And don’t forget: always use acid-free bookbinding glue to avoid icky yellow stains over time!

3. Case binding

Also known as hardcover binding , cloth binding , edition binding , library binding , and case-bound binding .

• Professional-looking outcomes
• Ideal for thick books
• Very customizable
• Comprises of more elements and can get expensive
• Unsuitable for thin booklets
• Time-consuming

Case binding involves constructing a sturdy case or cover for a book, which is then attached to a book block. In other words, you know those beautiful hardcover books you ohh and ahh over? These are it.

Commonly used on photo albums, journals, art books, coffee table books, and more, case binding demands a more elaborate toolset and skillset. You’ll glue and sew when case binding, so accurate proportions and measurements are everything.

This is also a lengthier, more meticulous approach to bookbinding since it usually comprises more elements like decorative endpapers, book cloths, and headbands. Make sure you have a good collection of bookbinding tools and supplies before starting!

4. Smyth-sewn binding

Also known as section-sewn binding , thread-sewn binding , and sewn binding .

• Durable finishes
• Suitable for projects of all sizes and weights
• Requires lots of steps
• The sewing process may present a learning curve
• Can’t edit once sections are bound

Smyth-sewn binding requires sewing folded signatures (groups of pages) with thread, which are then attached to book cover spines.

This is one of the most durable, versatile techniques and is ideal for all project sizes and weights. It is, however, one of the more intricate, time-consuming approaches to the craft, so you’ll need to build skill and precision as you learn.

Since bookbinding thread is at the heart of this technique, make sure you opt for quality materials, like waxed linen thread. Smyth-sewn binding is the perfect choice for books meant for frequent use since they easily endure tear and wear like a champ!

5. Japanese binding

Also known as stab binding and side-sewn binding .

• Unique, decorative technique
• Perfect for small volumes of pages
• Not the most durable
• Takes time to master
• Not for thick books

If centuries-old techniques are your thing, you’ll love Japanese binding. This bookbinding style originates from Japan and features simple, decorative sewing patterns to create aesthetic and functional booklets.

One of the perks of this technique is that it allows for books to lay flat when open, making it perfect for journals and sketchbooks. These projects usually incorporate solid or patterned book cloth, high-quality paper, and thread.

While minimalistic in appearance, this stitching style comes in different designs and will require skill and repetition to master. However, there are simpler variations that beginners can take on with the help of a couple of tutorials!

6. Coptic binding

Also known as chain stitch binding , Coptic stitch binding , and chain binding .

• Age-old binding method
• Best for projects with fewer pages
• More complex
• Less sturdy since there’s no spine
• Not ideal for heavy books

Coptic binding is one of the oldest forms of bookbinding. It uses a series of interconnected stitches to bind pages together and is easily recognized for its exposed spine.

There are variations of Coptic binding (see below), from basic to more intricate stitch patterns. In addition, these books lay flat when open, making them perfect for journals, scrapbooks, and sketchbooks.

For this bookbinding style, you’ll be doing quite a bit of sewing, so I suggest starting with smaller projects before moving on to bulkier books. This type of binding may require occasional repairs, so have some bookbinding tape at hand!

7. French stitch binding

Also known as French link stitch binding .

• A more aesthetic approach to standard Coptic binding
• Long-lasting
• Lays flat when open
• More advanced
• Exposed spine may not suit all purposes
• Usually requires repairing over time

French link binding falls under the Coptic binding category and involves lacing a ribbon or cord through a series of loops on the spine of a book. This translates into an elegant criss-cross-like pattern that adds visual appeal and texture.

Know that this is a slightly more advanced bookbinding style. Therefore, understanding the basics of Coptic binding first (featured above) is best before attempting it. Bookbinding kits are a great way to start learning!

This stitching style gives booklets a unique touch, making French link-bound booklets a fantastic creative gift.

8. Wire-o binding

Also known as ring wire binding , spiral wire binding , wire comb binding , twin loop binding , double loop binding , wire binding , and double-o binding .

• Best for medium-sized projects and up
• Practical for everyday use
• Cannot edit after binding
• Not advised for tiny booklets
• Requires binding machine

Wire-o binding uses metal wire threaded through holes to hold pages together and is one of the most popular bookbinding techniques. Yes, I’m talking about your typical spiral notebook!

From calendars and documents to school reports and music sheet booklets, wire-o binding allows projects to lay flat when open, making convenience and practicality one of its most significant advantages.

Unlike artisan techniques, this method requires a binding machine and crimping tool. It doesn’t use thread or glue, so remember, pages may tear easily. That said, go with other bookbinding techniques if your goal is to create booklets for sentimental value!

9. Comb binding

Also known as plastic comb binding , coil binding , and wire comb binding .

• Easy to edit/remove/add pages
• Suitable for most project sizes/volumes
• Pages can be ripped out easily
• Requires a binding machine
• Plastic spines tend to deteriorate over time

Comb binding involves punching rectangular holes along the edges of a stack of paper and inserting a plastic comb spine through the holes.

Much like wire-o binding, you’ll spot comb binding just about anywhere, whether at home or work, on manuals, reports, cookbooks, and others. This technique also requires using a binding machine and is best for functional vs. aesthetic purposes.

The upside? This is one of the cheapest forms of binding (given you have access to a binding machine!). Its biggest perk is that you can adjust the spine at any time to edit, add, and remove pages quickly and easily in just a matter of seconds.

10. Accordion binding

Also known as concertina binding , folded page binding , zig-zag binding , and pleat binding .

• Creative bookbinding technique
• Great to display and showcase artwork
• Requires minimal supplies
• Requires organizing content beforehand to ensure everything lines up well
• Not as durable vs. standard bookbinding techniques
• Larger projects can be time-consuming

Accordion bookbinding entails folding paper in a zig-zag manner that resembles, well, an accordion! It’s a trendy bookbinding style commonly used for children’s books , journals, and even photo albums.

You can use simple paper or decorative cardstock for the pages as well as all kinds of fabrics, from soft cloth to leather, for covers. Be creative!

This is a more unusual take on bookbinding that requires shifting gears from more standard styles. Know that the challenge will be planning your layout well to ensure the correct page sequence and direction, which can be tricky at first!

That’s it for this illustrated guide to bookbinding techniques every beginner should know! Do you have a favorite? Let everyone know in the comments below!

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• Rubber & Latex Adhesives
• Dry Blend Adhesives
• Glue Sticks
• Bookbinding
• Laminating Adhesives – applications
• General Packaging
• Product Assembly
• Paper Converting
• Tube Winding / Angle Board / Honeycomb
• Corrugating
• Custom Formulations
• Toll Produce
• Adhesive Audits
• Hot Melt Glue Stick Guns

How to Bind Books at Home: 4 Easy Tips for Perfect Book Binding

You may already understand the process of binding books at home, from creating folios to adding the fabric or leather for your cover. However, bookbinding at home doesn’t always get you the professional results that you’re looking for. If you have been less than satisfied with your books after binding them at home, we have several tips that can help you raise the bar and get a better-looking end result.

1. Use a Better Adhesive

Sliding and weak adhesive can undermine even the most perfect folds and placement that you have managed for your book. There are several adhesive options that can be a big upgrade from the craft store glue you’re using right now. Here are some options:

• PVA glue : The most popular glue option for home bookbinders, PVA glue has several properties that make it beneficial. It’s very strong when properly applied and is simple to clean off your table if you spill a bit. Plus, it will set at room temperature, with proper air circulation. PVA glue needs pressure to set properly, but it is otherwise a very simple adhesive to use properly at home.
• Acid-free : There are types of PVA glue that are acid-free. These are more brittle glues, but they also keep inks in better condition for a longer period of time. If you make a mistake, acid-free PVAs can be released with water even easier than typical PVA.
• Animal glues : While PVA is a better performing adhesive for bookbinding, historically animal glues were used. If you’re interested in exploring old bookbinding techniques, you may want to experiment with animal glues.

Looking to purchase a high-quality adhesive to bind the perfect book? We have just what you need. Visit our website or contact our team at Bond Tech Industries today for more information.

2. Pay Attention to Grain Direction

Understanding and orienting your book cloth grain direction is critical to get that clean, crisp look when you open the front cover. The grain runs along with the roll, not across it. Take a look at the selvage or the part of the roll that is not cut, to see the grain direction clearly. The grain should run against the spine, not parallel with it. This ensures optimum strength.

3. Glue Brushes

The quality of your glue brushes will affect the final result. We suggest you splurge on a high-quality brush.

4. Folding Signatures

Folding each piece of paper separately undermines the clean look that you want for your book. It is best to fold each signature together, which may mean you need to reduce the number of pages in your signature. In addition, try not to fold and refold any paper. Ideally, you’d fold once and stop, or you weaken the paper and the fold.

Binding books doesn’t have to be complicated. With the right glue and materials, bookbinding can be simple. To learn more, contact our team at Bond Tech Industries today!

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Home Made Book Rebinding

Introduction: Home Made Book Rebinding

I've found a couple of reading books from my mother's primary school. I like them for their graphic layout and pictures but they are in bad conditions. Both have lost their paperback covers and one is about to lose some pages because of broken binding threads.

I'm going to restore these books. I'll make a full book rebinding for the one which is loosing pages and then I'll make two fabric covered hardcovers for both.

Step 1: Tools and Materials

Here is a list of tools and materials I will use on this project:

• 2 wooden boards
• Paper clamps
• A twine spool
• Some fabric for the book's cover
• Book spine binding gauze or linen tape to reinforce the spine
• Linen thread for sweing
• A sewing needle
• Headbands to decorate the spine
• A satin ribbon for the bookmark
• Book boards or cardboard sheets for the book cover
• 2 sheets of 120 g/m2 A3 paper for the flyleaves
• Some strips of bookbinding clothes for the spine

Step 2: Preparing the Signatures

Let's start resewing the book with the broken threads.

First of all, I removed the binding thread by cutting it from the middle pages of each signature (signatures are sheets of paper stacked and folded as a group).

Then I created the top and bottom flyleaves. They are two special signatures, made of a couple of sheets of thick paper, placed at the top and bottom of the stack of signatures which compose the book. They will hold the book's cover which will be glued to the first and last page of the book. I made each copule of flyleaves by folding and cutting an A3 sheet of paper of 120 g/m2 grammage.

Step 3: Preparing the Spine

Now that the signatures and the flyleaves are ready, the spine must be prepared for the sewing phase by making some cross cuts that will be used to host some twine threads. These threads will provide support for the linen thread which will run into the signatures.

I've created a sort of vise using two wooden boards and two c-clamps. Once the signatures and the flyleaves were stacked together and clamped in the vise, I hanged the book over two chairs and cut four small grooves with a hacksaw. These grooves should be cut in between the leftmost and rightmost holes from the original binding; I will reuse these holes during the sewing phase, hence I added two holes for each flyleaves couple, aligned with them.

Step 4: Making a Bookbinding Loom

Now the signatures are ready to be sewed. I've made a bookbinding loom for this operation. I attached two wooden boards to a chair's back with some tape. After putting the book on the chair’s seat I clamped four piece of twine to the boards and aligned them to the four grooves in the spine. The sewing thread will pass inside the signatures and around these cords as we’ll see in the next steps.

Step 5: Sewing the Signatures

Now we can start sewing. I've put an animated gif you can follow along which shows the path of the thread through the signatures and the twine columns. 6 holes will be used for each signature: the leftmost and rightmost from the original binding where the linen thread will enter and exit; and the 4 holes in the middle, made by the grooves, where the twine threads will be hosted.

Here are the sewing steps:

• Insert the linen thread in a sewing needle.
• Put one of the flyleaves signatures on the chair, aligning the 4 holes from the grooves with the vertical twine threads.
• Insert the needle in the leftmost hole of the signature, exit from the second hole, walk around the twine column and go back into the second hole.
• Exit from the third hole and do the same thing again.
• Go on until you exit fro the rightmost hole.
• At this point put the first book signature over the flyleaves signature, aligning its holes to the twine columns.
• Insert the needle into its rightmost hole and do the same things you did before, but this time going from right to left.
• After completing this signature, exiting from the leftmost hole, tie the thread to the one exiting from the hole below. This will ensure the first two signatures to be well tied together.
• Continue with all the other signatures. Make a tie with the signature below every time you exit from the side holes.
• After sewing the top flyleaves signature you are done. Now remove the book from the loom and cut the twine threads, leaving 3 centimeters on each side.
• Unravel the pieces of cord and glue them to the flyleaves.

Step 6: Finishing the Spine

Now it is time to reinforce the spine and attach the headband decorations and the bookmark ribbon.

Cut a strip of bookbinding gauze and wrap it over the spine. Make sure the gauze is covering the glued cords on the sides of the book. Clamp the book into the vise and put some coats of glue on the gauze. Wait for the glue to dry, then attach the bookmark ribbon and the headbands to the spine.

Now remove the book from the vise and glue the sides of the gauze to the flyleaves. This will ensure a strong connection between the book and the flyleaves, where the hardcover will be attached.

Step 7: Making the Hardcover

I bought some pre-cut book boards from a typographer for the hardcover, but you can use some cardboard sheets and cut it by yourself. I put a small strip of cardboard on the spine part of the cover. To connect the three parts of the cover I used some booking cloth which is strong and flexible enough to hold the front and back cover while opening the book. Make sure to put enough padding between the spine and the covers to allow the book to close fine.

First I glued the fabric on the book boards, leaving the space for the bookbinding cloth. The I glued the bookbinding cloth, overlapping a bit of the fabric. When the glue was dry, I finally glued the cover on the flyleaves.

After finishing the hardcover, I put a couple of sticks on the spine sides and then kept the book for some time under some weight to give the spine its final shape.

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1.5-Square-Meter Undercover Communist Printing House from 1905 – Bookish Talk #4

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Often you can hear from a bookbinder or any other book artisan that they have a small workshop and what are the pros and cons of having a small working space. Well, here's a 1.5 square meter printing house.

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One of the Twelve Remaining Gutenberg Vellum Bibles is Exhibited in Moscow

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Just a 1000-Book Library

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During my recent visit to the Book Museum, here in Moscow, I’ve made a photo of a 1000-book library, exposed there. That’s just a small part of a much larger collection that was donated to the Russian State Library (it had another name at the moment) decades ago. Continue reading →

Moscow Metro Have Launched a Shakespeare-Themed Train

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Artists priced out of Los Angeles head to this creative hub in the high desert

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At high noon on a Saturday, the last aluminum pour of the day is about to commence at the Yucca Valley Material Lab .

Heidi Schwegler, founder of the Lab, has crawled up to the roof to get the best vantage point for a video. Schwegler has a hard stance on safety while still allowing for wild experimentation — it’s this attitude that makes the compound, with its art and recording studios, gallery, retrofitted campers and workshops like foundry and glass casting — a place of inspiration and community that pulls in people from all over the nation, but especially Angelenos looking for a reprieve from city life.

“This is the closest Derek and I could get to L.A. and afford it,” said Schwegler, referring to her partner, Derek Monypeny, who works with musicians. “And I think if you ask a lot of artists out here, they’ll say the same thing. It’s as close as you can get and be a really decent place to live and have a huge studio and still be within driving distance of an art center.”

It’s this passion and energy that pull artists east. Every workshop sells out, attracting hot-shot artists and retired high school teachers alike. “It’s really amazing to see my art and pedagogical practice come together outside of myself — in the form of a curved metal building plopped in the Mojave Desert,” Schwegler said. “Never would I have imagined this when we bought this property in 2018.”

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The Lab has become a landing place for out-of-town artists and people looking for a way to plug into the desert scene. Many artists in Yucca Valley moved there on a whim after visiting for a weekend, much like Schwegler.

“I built this program because I was really afraid I would become a total recluse out here, because I didn’t think anybody was out here,” Schwegler said. “Come to find out, it’s just like that saying: ‘If you build it, they will come.’”

An artist and self-proclaimed materials junkie, Schwegler has pulled together funding from various sources, including AHA Projects, a nonprofit organization that supports creators, to cover residency and workshop costs, including airfare for teachers and housing for artists. Schwegler also often works with artists from the desert and Los Angeles for trade.

The Lab’s growing community has been cited as a reason why L.A. artists stay in the high desert — being able to see familiar faces at one or two cultural events a weekend is a balm after the smorgasbord and sprawl of the Southland.

Haydeé Jiménez, an artist in residence at Yucca Valley Material Lab, wears a protective Kevlar apron during a bronze and aluminum workshop.

Students in the foundry casting in bronze and aluminum workshop pour molten aluminum into molds that were made earlier in the week.

In 2016, artists Ry Rocklen and Carolyn Pennypacker Riggs realized that a mortgage in the desert would be cheaper than a storage unit in Los Angeles. “I had a bunch of my ‘Trophy Modern’ furniture in storage and realized we could decorate our house with it and have a place to visit on the weekends,” said Rocklen, of a series of sculptures he made for an exhibit.

After having a child in 2020 and spending more time in nearby Joshua Tree, they moved full-time and converted their garage into studio space. “It was such a strange time, with so many different things going on, adjusting was not really on my mind. It was kind of a blur between our new baby, the pandemic and the move,” said Rocklen, who runs the gallery space Quality Coins in Yucca Valley. “The landscape, however, was our saving grace, as we were able to go on walks through the beautiful rocky hills.”

Back at the metal workshop, the roaring sound of the kiln — which is used in the process of turning molten bronze and aluminum into objects — fills the quiet desert mesa with an ambient soundtrack.

Haydeé Jiménez, a recent artist in residence who splits her time between Los Angeles and Tijuana, crouched outside the metals workshop observation window wearing headphones and sunglasses, with her microphone wind-screened by a cardboard box. Amid the Joshua trees and creosote bushes, she recorded the sounds of the makeshift foundry.

Jiménez, who describes her art practice as revolving around “sound, music and vibrational sound healing,” said she was excited to work with new materials.

“When I first got the invitation to join [the Lab] for a residency, I hoped to work with glass and create little resonant objects for the development of a sort of acoustic ASMR experience,” said Jiménez, referring to Autonomous Sensory Meridian Response, which is when one is soothed by sounds like whispers and taps. Later in the weekend, she’d layer the foundry recording over sounds made using bronze objects from the workshop in a performance with gong-master Tatsuya Nakatani at the Firehouse, a Joshua Tree venue.

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Any given weekend at the compound can be action-packed; that Saturday, Lazy Eye Gallery opened Michelle Ross’ “Before Pictures,” a show of sculptural paintings inside the nave of a water tower converted into a small funnel of a gallery space with a ladder to the roof that affords a view of the mesa.

But as the artists’ community grows, so has interest in real estate in Yucca Valley, Joshua Tree and Twentynine Palms, once considered more affordable areas. Housing prices in Yucca Valley have grown 80% since 2019, according to Zillow , although the steep pandemic rush has since cooled .

Haydeé Jiménez, an artist in residence at Yucca Valley Material Lab, records sounds of students in the foundry pouring molten aluminum into molds. A view of the Lazy Eye gallery at the Yucca Valley Material Lab.

“The presence of Airbnbs is corrosive,” said Riggs, observing that interested buyers have grown beyond “Silver Lake hipsters with a getaway cabin.” Last year, Yucca Valley capped short-term rentals at 10% of its housing stock. According to Redfin , most people searching to buy Yucca Valley homes today are in San Francisco.

Between the expansive landscape, cheaper-than-L.A. studio space and the small-town feel, the desert offers the experience of slow time — which can help some artists tap into a flow state without the day-to-day distraction of city living. But all that free time and space can be intimidating.

Ceramic artist and designer Mansi Shah left Los Angeles in 2020 after another artist friend told her about a house for rent in Yucca Valley; she packed up and headed to the desert within a few weeks. “There was 500 feet of open desert between me and my nearest neighbor. I remember those first few months, I was terrified of everything. The wind, the quiet, the desert critters,” said Shah.

“My introduction to life in America was the desert,” said Shah. She grew up in Palm Springs with her hotel manager father after her family emigrated from India. But later, she’d lived in Los Angeles, then New York and then returned to Los Angeles. “Now moving back here to the high desert, setting up my home and studio, it feels I’ve come back full circle.”

When she moved to L.A. in 2017, she realized that it had radically changed — most noticeably, the rent prices.

“But every exploding colorful sunset, every jackrabbit, every coyote sighting changed my brain chemistry,” said Shah. “I began to soften and ease into the different pace of life here. There’s a reverence for nature here that I hadn’t experienced before.”

In the summer months, the average temperature is 95 degrees Fahrenheit . “My studio schedule revolves around outside temperatures,” said Shah. “I tend to work early mornings and nights in the summer and run the kiln overnight.”

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Workshops at the Lab are about to wind down for the summer, making the last bronze pour of the day bittersweet.

After pouring hot aluminum into one of her stick-shaped molds and letting it cool in a pile of dirt, a participant took a ball-peen hammer and cracked open the rough silicate mold, like a geode.

The next day, participants buffed their objects and applied chemical solvents to create patinas and finishes before heading back to the city. After the last pour finished, the crucible was set aside to cool.

“That’s a wrap,” said Schwegler, while everyone clapped.

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Los Angeles Times staff photographer Allen J. Schaben is an award-winning journalist capturing a wide range of images over the past 34 years. Before joining The Times, he honed his craft at the Detroit Free Press, Dallas Morning News, Wichita Eagle and Connecticut Post. Schaben earned his bachelor’s degree in journalism at the University of Nebraska-Lincoln in 1993.

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521 S. Main, Moscow,  Idaho 83843 | (208) 882-2669 | [email protected] | 10am - 6pm Mon-Sat, 10am - 4pm Sun

Welcome to BookPeople of Moscow

Book Photo 1 May 2024

Event Winter 2024

BookPeople May 2024

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We are open 7 days a week in the heart of Moscow's vibrant downtown and its "hip strip" on south Main street. 

Online ordering, free gift wrapping, and free local delivery are always available.

There is lots of free parking in downtown Moscow, both in front of the store on Main Street, and in back of the store in the Jackson Street parking lot.

Please note our old email address bookpeople @ moscow.com has been retired. Please use [email protected].

Thank you and see you soon!

CELEBRATING OVER 50 YEARS AS YOUR ORIGINAL, LOCAL, INDEPENDENT BOOKSTORE!

BookPeople of Moscow has been the Palouse region's favorite independent bookstore since 1973. Locally owned and operated by Carol Price, Breanne Pickens, and Steffen Werner (plus a great staff team!), BookPeople of Moscow features a variety of high-quality fiction and non-fiction for readers of all ages, plus a wide selection of gifts, candles, journals, puzzles, calendars, greeting cards, and certified bean-to-bar chocolate.

BookPeople of Moscow staff members pride themselves on providing excellent customer service. We are also proud to contribute to the cultural life of our community by organizing and hosting author events, serving as a community "third place," and providing a safe place for people of all identities. We believe in the free and unfettered access to books for all people, and believe it is the individual's and parent's duty and privilege, not the government's, to choose which books to buy and read. While we do not have room for every book on our shelves, and curate our selection to cater to our customers' tastes and our own whims, we can get almost any book for customers and will do so, if it's available, when requested.

The owners of the store also take pride in providing a great working environment for our staff, paying wages that are as fair as we can manage, and providing essential benefits such as sick leave, paid time off, health care subsidies, and a matching retirement savings plan. Keeping this business profitable is a mutually beneficial project for us and the whole community, so we thank you for supporting your local bookstore!

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