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An ecosystem service approach to the study of vineyard landscapes in the context of climate change: a review

• Review Article
• Open access
• Published: 17 September 2022
• Volume 18 , pages 997–1013, ( 2023 )

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• Sebastian Candiago   ORCID: orcid.org/0000-0001-5065-6364 1 , 2 ,
• Klara Johanna Winkler 3 ,
• Valentina Giombini 1 ,
• Carlo Giupponi 2 &
• Lukas Egarter Vigl 1  

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Vineyard landscapes significantly contribute to the economy, identity, culture, and biodiversity of many regions worldwide. Climate change, however, is increasingly threatening the resilience of vineyard landscapes and of their ecological conditions, undermining the provision of multiple ecosystem services. Previous research has often focused on climate change impacts, ecosystem conditions and ecosystem services without systematically reviewing how they have been studied in the literature on viticulture. Here, we systematically review the literature on vineyard landscapes to identify how ecosystem conditions and services have been investigated, and whether an integrative approach to investigate the effects of climate change was adopted. Our results indicate that there are still very few studies that explicitly address multiple ecosystem conditions and services together. Only 28 and 18% of the reviewed studies considered more than two ecosystem conditions or services, respectively. Moreover, while more than 97% of the relationships between ecosystem conditions and services studied were addressing provisioning and regulating services, only 3% examined cultural services. Finally, this review found that there is a lack of integrative studies that address simultaneously the relationships between ecosystem condition, ecosystem services and climate change (only 15 out of 112 studies). To overcome these gaps and to better understand the functioning of vineyard socio-ecological systems under climate change, multidisciplinary, integrative, and comprehensive approaches should be adopted by future studies. A holistic understanding of vineyard landscapes will indeed be crucial to support researchers and decision makers in developing sustainable adaptation strategies that enhance the ecological condition of vineyards and ensure the provision of multiple ecosystem services under future climate scenarios.

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Introduction

Vineyard landscapes (VLs) are important agroecosystems that provide multiple economic, ecological, and cultural benefits, or ecosystem services, to society (Table 1 ). Due to the economic value of wine grapes, viticulture and winemaking shape the socio-economic system of many winegrowing regions worldwide (Fraga et al. 2012 ; Azorín and García 2020 ). The mosaic of land uses within VLs, including croplands, forests, shrublands and riparian areas, also supports the biodiversity and ecosystem functioning of these regions (Viers et al. 2013 ; Winkler and Nicholas 2016 ; Winter et al. 2018 ). In addition to these economic and ecological qualities, VLs are also often defined as cultural landscapes that provide a variety of intangible benefits to residents and visitors alike (Winkler and Nicholas 2016 ).

The range of ecosystem services provided by VLs is largely determined by the physical, chemical, and biological conditions, or quality, (i.e., ecosystem condition) of each agroecosystem at a particular point in time (Maes et al. 2016 , 2018 ; Kokkoris et al. 2018 ). The relationship between ecosystem conditions and services is particularly evident in traditional VLs, which have developed over time as a result of a close relationship between local environmental conditions and human activities. However, different drivers of change can exert multiple pressures on ecosystem conditions and can have direct and indirect impacts on the related ecosystem services (Maes et al. 2018 ). In particular, climate change effects such as higher temperatures and altered precipitation regimes are already posing significant challenges to the integrity and condition of many VLs and are, thus, altering the capacity of these systems to deliver a variety of provisioning, regulating, and cultural ecosystem services (Hannah et al. 2013 ; Bindi and Nunes 2016 ; Maes et al. 2018 ). Moreover, changes in climatic conditions are also reflected in more complex human–nature interactions related to land conversions, as new land at the cooler end of the vine suitability spectrum is becoming increasingly available or as established vineyards are being abandoned (Vigl et al. 2018 ).

Over the past years, the analysis of the relationships between ecosystem conditions, ecosystem services, and climate change in VLs has received attention in literature on viticulture. Studies have looked, for example, at the effects of climate change on those conditions and services important for food production, such as yield, plant growth, and soil fertility (Tancoigne et al. 2014 ; Winkler et al. 2017 ; Nieto-Romero et al. 2014 ). Winkler et al. ( 2017 ), in their review paper, were among the first to introduce the importance of considering the multiple ecosystem functions and services provided by VLs. They found that viticulture research mainly addressed provisioning and regulating ecosystem services, looking at VLs as agrarian landscapes. Studies that address multiple ecosystem conditions or services simultaneously (i.e., comprehensive research) instead also recognize and highlight other important co-benefits (Power 2010 ; Maes et al. 2018 ). Indeed, researchers have recently started to examine more systematically the full array of ecosystem services provided by VLs, also including socio-cultural services such as heritage, identity, and esthetics (Sottini et al. 2019 ; Garcia et al. 2018 ).

To face the complexities of an increasingly interconnected world where disciplinary or sectoral approaches have had limited success, it is necessary to develop and apply holistic thinking (Wezel et al. 2020 ). In fact, the co-creation of knowledge from different disciplines (i.e., multidisciplinarity), has been listed as one of the main elements that can support the development of transformative change pathways towards sustainable food and agricultural systems (FAO 2019 ). Analyzing the multiple ecosystem conditions and services provided by VLs embracing a multidisciplinary perspective can provide opportunities for the sustainable management of agroecosystems that cannot be obtained by adopting single discipline approaches (Stark 1995 ).

In recent decades, ecosystem services research has showed the importance of considering both ecosystem conditions and anthropogenic pressures to understand how the benefits of nature are delivered to society (Maes et al. 2018 ). Adopting an ecosystem service approach in the study of agroecosystems fosters research that disentangles the relationships among different components of a socio-ecological system, i.e., integrative research (Falardeau and Bennett 2019 ; Liu et al. 2014 ). Consequently, adopting an integrative approach enables one to study how an ecosystem condition is affected by climate change and which are the related consequences on the provision of an ecosystem service (Falardeau and Bennett 2019 ; Kluger et al. 2020 ). The results of such integrative research would allow the increase of knowledge on the components of these socio-ecological systems and their relationships, providing the insights and recommendations needed to support decision makers in developing strategies that enhance the provision of ecosystem services while addressing the potential negative effects of drivers of change (Maes et al. 2018 ; Falardeau and Bennett 2019 ). This is particularly important in view of the management of VLs under new climate scenarios.

Decision makers working to ensure the resilience of VLs under climate change require timely and thorough knowledge on the relationships between climate change, ecosystems, and desired ecosystem services. In the past, however, there has not always been the interest to explore all these relationships, and there is the need to target research to explore missing and understudied linkages to avoid maladaptation or unintended consequences to policy interventions. Understanding which relationships among VL components have been explored so far by academia is enabled by having a systematic knowledge on the studies that have been carried out on VLs. Conducting a systematic review can produce this knowledge, as it would systematically search for, appraise, and synthetize available research on selected components of VLs, following specific guidelines and ensuring rigorousness and full replicability (Grant and Booth 2009 ). This would allow one to identify the links between those components for which more research is needed, and to fill important research gaps in the literature. To our knowledge, however, no systematic reviews have so far reviewed how the relationships between climate change and multiple ecosystem conditions and services in VLs have been studied in the literature.

In this study, we carry out a systematic literature review to examine how ecosystem conditions in VLs are studied in relation to the provision of ecosystem services, and how both are investigated in the context of climate change. We provide indications to researchers on which relationships among climate change, ecosystem conditions and services in VLs have been studied, and to what extent. Our objectives are:

To identify the main spatiotemporal patterns and the disciplines found in the literature on ecosystem conditions, ecosystem services, and climate change in VLs.

To analyze how the relationships between ecosystems conditions and ecosystem services in VLs are studied.

To understand how climate change is considered in the study of the ecosystem conditions and ecosystem services in VLs.

Materials and methods

Literature search and selection.

We identified peer-reviewed publications from the online databases Scopus and Web of Science following the steps of the Preferred Reporting Items for Systematic reviews and Meta-Analyses (PRISMA) methodology (Moher et al. 2009 ) (supplementary figure S1), building on the search structure used also by Falardeau and Bennett ( 2019 ). We specifically looked for research papers dealing with VLs that investigated links between ecosystem conditions, ecosystem services, and climate change variables. The set of terms used to search for relevant publications included ( a set of terms relevant to winegrowing ) AND ( terms connected with climate change ) AND ( terms related to ecosystem conditions OR terms related to ecosystem services ). To thoroughly search for relevant literature regarding climate change, ecosystem conditions, and ecosystem services, we performed several queries to tailor our search on each of the ecosystem conditions and services considered in the context of climate change. We started by running a query to find articles published on the effects of climate change on the ecosystem conditions in VLs, using the European framework proposed for the Mapping and Assessment of Ecosystems and their Services (Maes et al. 2018 ) to define our search terms related to ecosystem conditions. Then, we ran a set of twenty-eight tailored queries, one for each ecosystem service class included in this review, to include literature on those ecosystem services, viticulture, and the effects of climate change (see tables S1 and S2). The ecosystem service classes and the related synonyms included in each of these queries were based on the work by Winkler et al. ( 2017 ). Finally, to intercept all relevant literature that studied ecosystem services in VLs, we also ran a general query without specifying any ecosystem service classes nor terms connected to climate change.

We combined the results of our search strings using the R-package “bibliometrics” (Aria and Cuccurullo 2017 ; R Core Team 2020 ), (supplementary tables S1 and S2). Our search was conducted on March 25, 2020, obtaining over 1,600 potentially relevant articles. After removing duplicates ( n  = 986), we screened the titles, keywords and abstracts of 661 articles by applying a set of inclusion and exclusion criteria (supplementary table S3). To screen the content of the papers, we combined manual and automatic techniques using the QCRI Rayyan software (Ouzzani et al. 2016 ). Rayyan is a free systematic review software that facilitates the initial screening of abstracts and titles using a process of semi-automation (Harrison et al. 2020 ). The software uses machine learning to increase the speed of the screening process, using the inclusion/exclusion decisions made by the user on a sample of papers to score the likelihood that studies awaiting screening will be included. As suggested by the methodology used in previous reviews, we manually assessed 10% of the records uploaded in Rayyan to train the machine learning algorithm that automatically screened the remaining studies (Garrick et al. 2019 ). After applying the trained algorithm, we conducted a manual validation of the results. For this purpose, we selected an additional 10% of the automatically classified articles and checked them, paying attention to keeping training and validation datasets separate. We found a high correspondence (> 90%) between the results of the automatic classification and the results of the manual quality control. After the screening process, we assessed the full texts of 208 papers and ultimately retained 112 articles in our review.

Relationships between ecosystem conditions, ecosystem services and climate change addressed by the literature

To review with an integrative perspective how ecosystem conditions, ecosystem services, and climate change variables have been studied in the literature, we counted each time the relationship (i.e., a link) between climate change, ecosystem conditions, and ecosystem services was addressed in a reviewed paper (Menegon et al. 2018 ; Carter et al. 1994 ; Falardeau and Bennett 2019 ). We considered as a “link” any relationship between system components which was investigated with qualitative or quantitative methods, even if it was found to be a non-significant correlation. The aim of the present study is indeed to understand how research on VLs has been conducted by academia until now, and not to investigate the biophysical processes occurring in VLs.

The three types of links that we considered were (Fig.  1 ):

ecosystem condition ecosystem service

climate change ecosystem condition

climate change ecosystem condition ecosystem service

Representation of the three link types looked for in the review of the papers. The main components of VLs that we considered were ecosystem conditions, ecosystem services and climate change

For example, when Fraga et al. ( 2019 ) studied the influence of phenology on the amount of grapes produced (crop production), the authors described an ecosystem condition ecosystem service link, specifically a phenology crop production link. In the same way, if a paper assessed an influence of temperature on phenology, then it described a climate change ecosystem condition link, and thus, we recorded the link temperature phenology . Lastly, if a paper described the influence of temperature on phenology and the related effects of phenology on crop production, then we recorded the integrative link temperature phenology crop production ( climate change ecosystem condition ecosystem service ). These three types of links are highly interrelated and interdependent. For this reason, we analyzed them jointly by following the structure of the framework developed by the European mapping and assessment of ecosystems and their services (Maes et al. 2018 ). This enabled us to identify which relationships amongst ecosystem conditions, ecosystem services, and climate change were more or less frequently studied.

Extracting information from the articles

We retrieved information from the articles based on a set of structured questions (Table 2 ). For our first research objective, we started by analyzing the context, focus and disciplines of each paper (Q1–Q7). For our second research objective, we retrieved information on how and which ecosystem conditions and ecosystem services were studied in the articles (Q8–Q10). For our third research objective, we investigated how the influence of climate change on VLs was investigated (Q11–Q12).

Context and focus of the articles

The spatial distribution of the reviewed studies corresponded to the locations of the world’s main viticulture regions. Most articles have been published over the last decade and looked at European VLs (74%, Fig.  2 a). All the studies we found were only published after 2000, with 85% of them published since 2013 (Fig.  2 b). Nevertheless, most papers had a regional or local focus, while only 10% of the cases had a transnational or national scope. Regarding the temporal perspective, future scenarios were included in nine out of the 112 investigated articles, while the other articles were based on data from past and present observations.

Key features of the 112 articles included in our literature review: a spatial distribution of the analyzed articles. Research papers are classified based on their geographic scale and the inclusion of future projections in their analysis. Criteria for spatial and temporal classification are provided in supplementary table S4. Review papers are classified separately (gray circles) based on their geographic location, defined using the affiliation of their first author; b bar chart for each year of publication, classified by the thematic focus of the articles; c bar chart representing the methodology used (M = model, FO = field observation, R = literature review, E = field experiment, Q = questionnaire) to study the links between ecosystem conditions (EC), ecosystem services (ES), and climate change (CC), classified by the thematic focus of the articles

We found that 60% of our papers focused only on ecosystem conditions ecosystem services links, while 40% included climate change ecosystem conditions or climate change ecosystem conditions ecosystem services links. Of those studies that focused on ecosystem conditions ecosystem services links, 63% were published after 2015. The number of studies that included climate change-related links remained consistent over the reviewed time period (Fig.  2 b). Most of the articles that used a modeling approach considered climate change variables (84%, Fig.  2 c), whilst the articles using field observations or experiments mainly focused on ecosystem conditions ecosystem services links (86 and 100% of the articles, respectively). Literature review approaches were used by both those studies that focused on ecosystem conditions and services, and those that included climate change variables. Finally, 70% of the articles that adopted more than one method were investigating ecosystem conditions ecosystem services links. The combination of models and questionnaires was used only in papers that included climate change-related links.

Ecosystem conditions and ecosystem services

In our review, we found a total of 276 ecosystem conditions ecosystem services links in 76 papers. The most studied ecosystem conditions included in this link type were ground cover conditions (38%), landscape composition (16%), local habitat conditions (14%), vineyard soil conditions (8%), presence of animals or fungi (8%), management regime (7%) and water availability (3%) (Fig.  4 ). Most of the articles that included ecosystem conditions ecosystem services links considered only one single ecosystem condition (57%), (supplementary figure S2a). The study by Winkler et al. ( 2017 ), for example, was one of the few cases that analyzed how multiple ecosystem conditions, such as landscape composition, vineyard soil, canopy management strategies, and presence of natural enemies, affect the provision of multiple ecosystem services in VLs. The most studied ecosystem services were those related to the maintenance of nursery beneficial populations and habitats (32%), pest control (17%), decomposition and fixing processes and their effects on soil (17%), crop production (9%), and filtration and storage by organisms (6%). When looking at the temporal patterns in the publication of the reviewed articles, we found that although only a limited number of papers studied multiple ecosystem conditions and services (Fig.  3 a, b), an increasing number of linkages can be observed.

a Number of ecosystem conditions considered together in our sample of papers over time; b number of ecosystem services considered in our sample of papers over time; c the number of climate change ecosystem conditions ecosystem services links considered over time

As found for ecosystem conditions, also ecosystem services were considered mainly individually. In fact, 62% of the papers that included an ecosystem conditions ecosystem service link considered only one ecosystem service, and 19% considered two. Studies that considered three or more ecosystem services were less than 20%. For example, Viers et al. ( 2013 ) included 11 different ecosystem services when reviewing potential benefits provided by VLs (supplementary figure S2b).

We found that the ecosystem conditions ecosystem services links focused mainly on a specific set of ecosystem conditions that was particularly studied in relation to the regulating and provisioning ecosystem services that are important for wine grape production. For example, ground cover conditions in the inter-row spaces of vineyards have been extensively studied, especially for their potential to limit weed establishment and to maintain populations and habitats of species that prey on pests (16% of the links), such as in Hoffmann et al. ( 2017 ). Ground cover was also studied regarding its effect on other services, showing that it is useful for increasing the decomposition and fixing processes of the soil, regulating the water cycle, and protecting the soil against erosion, (15% of the links), (Nistor et al. 2018 ; Shields et al. 2016 ; Winter et al. 2018 ).

Landscape composition was studied in relation to the provision of many services. The presence of semi-natural areas near vineyards and landcover heterogeneity at the landscape scale were studied in relation to the capacity to provide habitats and increase the populations of species that are beneficial for vintners and for the biological control of pests (11% of the links). For example, Rusch et al. ( 2016 ) found that the presence of diverse natural habitats enhanced ground beetle species turnover, supporting more heterogeneous insect communities in simple landscapes. The same author analyzed the pest control of grape berry moths in Bordeaux vineyards, concluding that landscape heterogeneity was the main variable affecting the biological control of these insects (Rusch et al. 2017 ). Local habitat conditions were studied based on specific elements, including the presence of solitary trees or green infrastructure such as hedgerows, that can provide habitat for beneficial animals, (5% of the links), e.g., in Polyakov et al. ( 2019 ), Rosas-Ramos et al. ( 2019 ). We found that habitats characteristic of VLs, such as stone walls and hedgerows, were also investigated for the provision of cultural services such as those related to esthetic perceptions or cultural heritage (Assandri et al. 2018 ). The presence of animals or fungi was studied in terms of pest control (4% of the links). For instance, we found multiple studies that examined the activity of arthropods, birds and bats in vineyards and their role as predators against pests such as grape berry moths, e.g., Thiéry et al. ( 2018 ). In addition, we found that specific organisms, such as arbuscular mycorrhizae, were considered for their benefits to VLs, e.g., alleviation of grapevine water stress (Trouvelot et al. 2015 ).

Vineyard soil conditions were analyzed considering ecosystem services related to decomposition and fixing processes (4% of the links), for example studying the fraction of organic carbon in the soil, which influences carbon sequestration (Nistor et al. 2018 ; Novara et al. 2018 ). Vineyard management regimes were mostly studied by analyzing the effect of organic practices on the enhancement of beneficial populations, habitats, and pest control effects (5% of the links), e.g., in Muneret et al. ( 2019 ). Water availability was studied in relation to grape production (3% of the links), as Bernardo et al. ( 2018 ) and Schultz ( 2016 ) showed that this is an important condition for the formation and development of grape berries.

Climate change

We found 122 climate change ecosystem conditions links stemming from 46 papers. The most studied climate change variables in these links were temperature (58%), followed by precipitation (34%), extreme events (5%) and CO 2 concentration (3%) (Fig.  4 ). In 50% of the cases, articles that included climate change ecosystem conditions links considered only one ecosystem condition (supplementary figure S2d). In 46% of the cases, two or more climate change variables, especially temperature and precipitation, were included (Figure S2c). The most studied ecosystem conditions were phenology (26%), climatic suitability for viticulture (14%), the presence of animals or fungi (12%), and gross primary production (11%).

Sankey diagram representing the ecosystem conditions ecosystem services links, climate change ecosystem conditions links, and climate change ecosystem conditions ecosystem services links retrieved in our review. The thickness of the lines is proportional to the total number of links. The percentages of how much the single links’ components and their relationships were studied are reported in supplementary figure S4 and table S7)

In 20% of climate change ecosystem conditions links, temperature was studied either in relation to the advancement of the phenological stages of grapevines, like in Fraga et al. ( 2016 ), or based on the recorded harvest dates as a proxy for vine phenology for premium wine estates, e.g., Carlo et al. ( 2019 ). Temperature was also shown to not only influence specific plant-dependent processes but also the overall climatic suitability for viticulture in many areas (10% of the climate change ecosystem conditions link). For example, increasing temperatures are threatening grape production in many traditional grape growing regions and increasing the suitability of new areas for viticulture (Fraga et al. 2016 ). The influence of temperature in the regulation of the water cycle was reflected in the number of links (7%) retrieved from studies that highlighted how the increase in temperature will decrease the water reservoirs upon which some VLs depend, e.g., in Castex et al. ( 2015 ), and increase evapotranspiration, leading to water deficits and changes in several vine yield parameters, e.g., in Leeuwen et al. ( 2019 ). Temperature was moreover investigated due to its influence on animals and fungi present in VLs (7% of the links), as it was shown to possibly increase pest activity in viticultural areas by creating more suitable climatic conditions (e.g., Nesbitt et al. ( 2016 ), Rayne and Forest ( 2016 )). Precipitation was studied primarily in terms of water availability in vineyards and climatic suitability for viticulture (8% of the links). The decrease of water availability was shown to negatively affect the overall quantity of water for the physiological activities of the vines (Lazoglou et al. 2018 ). Increased moisture due to higher precipitation was related to the presence of fungi in vineyards and to the risk of fungal pathogen outbreaks and disease pressure (Neethling et al. 2019 ). Precipitation was also found to affect phenology (5% of the links), such as in Ramos et al. ( 2018 ). Extreme events such as hail and heavy storms were considered only in 5% of the climate change ecosystem conditions links, even if these events can heavily influence the gross primary productivity of vines by damaging plants in sensitive phenological phases such as budburst, as showed by Nesbitt et al. ( 2016 ) and Neethling et al. ( 2019 ). Finally, the increase in CO 2 concentration was primarily studied in relation to the presence of animals and fungi and to the changes in phenology and gross primary production (2% of the links). For example, Schultz ( 2016 ) reported that an increase in CO 2 concentration can be beneficial for the biomass production of vines but could also lead to an increase in the activity of insects, which will result in more damage to plants. A higher CO 2 concentration in combination with increased temperatures and water deficit was shown to contribute to the modification of the phenological stages of vines (Martínez-Lüscher et al. 2016 ).

We found 78 climate change ecosystem condition ecosystem service links from 15 papers. The most studied climate change variables included in these links were temperature (52%) and precipitation (41%), while the most studied ecosystem conditions were water availability (24%), animals and fungi (21%) and landscape composition (15%). Ecosystem services considered in these links were crop production (62%), decomposition and fixing processes (21%), and pest control (18%) (Fig.  4 ). Like in the climate change ecosystem condition links, many of the papers studied more than one climate change variable, while single ecosystem conditions and services were considered in the majority of the papers (supplementary figure S2e, f, g). Notably, the number of climate change ecosystem condition ecosystem service links extracted from our sample is increasing in the last few years (Fig.  3 c).

Around 20% of the climate change ecosystem condition ecosystem service links were related to the study of temperature and precipitation on water availability, and the consequent effects on crop production. For example, Ramos and Martínez-Casasnovas ( 2010 ) studied how temperature and precipitation distributions associated to climate change affect water availability of rainfed vineyards, thus influencing the vine grape yield. Another 19% of the links studied the effects of changed temperature and precipitation patterns on landscape composition, and the related effects on the decomposition and fixing processes provided by VLs. Muñoz-Rojas et al. ( 2015 ) studied how soil organic carbon is influenced by changes in temperature and precipitation, which in turn affects carbon stocks. The influences of temperature and precipitation patterns were studied by 20% of the links in relation to the phenology and climatic suitability of vines to determine how they influence the provision of wine grapes, e.g., in Fraga et al. ( 2016 ), Fraga et al. ( 2019 ). Finally, 9% of the links focused on the effects of changing temperatures on the animals and fungi present in VLs. For example, as illustrated by Thiéry et al. ( 2018 ), the increase of temperature influences the abundance and diversity of natural enemies and parasitoids of vine pests in vineyards, affecting their capacity to provide pest control.

Disciplines

The reviewed papers originated from journals belonging to a limited number of disciplines. Around 41% of the articles were categorized as belonging to the agricultural and biological sciences, 37% to the environmental sciences and 7% to earth and planetary sciences. In particular, papers from the agricultural and biological sciences and from the environmental sciences have been studying VLs over time (supplementary figure S3). Other relevant disciplines were those from the social sciences (4%) and from biochemistry, genetics and molecular biology (3%) (Fig.  5 a). Ecosystem conditions ecosystem services links were addressed in papers published mainly by agricultural and biological sciences, environmental sciences, and earth and planetary sciences journals, with more than 90% of the links originating from either the environmental sciences or the agricultural and biological sciences, showing the importance of these fields. Climate change ecosystem conditions links were studied in papers coming out of environmental sciences, and agricultural and biological sciences in almost 80% of the cases. Climate change ecosystem conditions ecosystem services links were studied by environmental sciences, and agricultural and biological sciences in almost 90% of the cases.

Disciplines included in our review: a categorization of the articles in our review based on the disciplines of the journal; b categorization of the links retrieved in our review based on the discipline of the journal. In both cases, we accounted for journals ranked in more than one discipline by creating an entry for each discipline

Beyond grape provision

Our study highlighted that even if the number of ecosystem conditions and services investigated in our sample of papers has increased in recent years, there is the need to consider ecosystem conditions and ecosystem services more comprehensively. For example, we found that only 3% of the ecosystem conditions ecosystem services links retrieved by our review addressed cultural services. In addition, only 28 and 18% of the reviewed studies considered more than two ecosystem conditions or services, respectively. There is, therefore, the need to adopt a more comprehensive view both on the variables that are studied, e.g., which ecosystem conditions and services, and on how multiple variables are investigated together, e.g., multiple ecosystem conditions and services.

The results of our review suggest that there is a need to take into better consideration a wider range of ecosystem conditions and services in VLs. To foster more comprehensive research, future studies on VLs should focus on understudied ecosystem conditions such as vine variety, water availability, and the characteristics of vineyard soil, and understudied ecosystem services such as the provision of fibers and materials, water regulation, and erosion control. More attention should moreover be placed on the intangible services provided by VLs and on the potential of VLs for supporting outdoor recreation, and bequest and existence values. For example, there is evidence that assessments of relational values can support the development of policies that leverage farmers’ sense of identity, such as when designing payments for ecosystem services schemes to support biodiversity conservation and soil conservation practices (Allen et al. 2018 ; Chan et al. 2016 ). As also found by previous reviews on VLs (Winkler et al. 2017 ; Paiola et al. 2020 ), and on other ecosystem types, i.e., forest, coast, arctic or mountain (Mengist and Soromessa 2019 ; Liquete et al. 2013 ; Falardeau and Bennett 2019 ; Mengist et al. 2019 ), literature on ecosystem services often focuses on the restricted range of services that are involved in the production of material goods and can be easily quantified (Martín-Lopez et al. 2012 ). Thus, approaches that study agroecosystems without an exclusively instrumental viewpoint, but that also include intrinsic and relational values, should be adopted more frequently (Himes and Muraca 2018 ). A more comprehensive approach to the study of VLs could, therefore, provide critical information that can foster the transformation and adaptation of these socio-ecological system.

Our review has moreover found that the majority of articles that study ecosystem services in VLs investigate a single ecosystem condition or ecosystem service. In some cases, there are scientific and practical reasons why a study would focus on a single ecosystem condition. For example, those studies that are aiming to gain an understanding of the functioning of vines under warmer temperatures often look at their phenology because this condition allows the quantification of the differences in the development of the plants starting from the budbreak to the harvest of grape clusters (Fraga et al. 2016 , 2019 ). In other cases, however, focusing on a higher number of ecosystem conditions would allow the better understanding of the interplay of ecosystem services at the ecosystem and landscape scale. In our review, we found only six papers that studied more than two ecosystem conditions and services together. This is the case of Capó-Bauçà et al. ( 2019 ) who analyzed three ecosystem services (decomposition and fixing processes by soil, water regulation, the provision of populations and habitats) and two ecosystem conditions (ground cover conditions, vineyard soil) to highlight the benefits provided by green cover crops in Mediterranean vineyards. The other five papers were literature reviews, and this is the reason why a high number of ecosystem conditions and services was included in their study. These reviews were moreover investigating widely studied ecosystem services and conditions, such as ground cover conditions, the presence of animal and fungi, the provision of population and habitats, and decomposition and fixing processes by soil. More comprehensive research on VLs could be fostered by including those ecosystem conditions that are very important for providing multiple services. For instance, in our review local habitat conditions were studied only in a limited number of papers, despite the fact that they affect a wide range of ecosystem services such as pest control, soil quality, and decomposition and fixing processes (Polyakov et al. 2019 ; Rosas-Ramos et al. 2019 ; Tixier et al. 2015 ). Moreover, applying a holistic perspective to address climate change challenges, such as changes in precipitation patterns, could foster the simultaneous study of all the ecosystem conditions and services involved in the process, e.g., in the water cycle. Given the lack of multifunctional research in VLs, conducting research that sheds light on the relationships among the understudied components of VLs would be a first step towards a more complete understanding of these socio-ecological systems (Rusch et al. 2022 ).

While the study of VLs’ multifunctionality helps to grasp the agroecosystems’ capacity to support various aspects of ecosystem resilience and of human well-being, attention should be placed on the issues related to its assessment methods. Indeed, since only a subset of all the possible functions and services present in an ecosystem can be quantified, multifunctionality measures are not absolute and depend on the ecosystem services or functions included in the studies (Manning et al. 2018 ). Multifunctionality can be described by different indices which underline the total supply (e.g., average) or the diversity (e.g., alpha diversity) of multiple ecosystem services at different scales (Manning et al. 2018 ). In addition, some approaches might be better suited than others to consider the trade-offs and synergies occurring between ecosystem services (Schaafsma and Bartkowski 2020 ). To overcome these gaps, the concept of multifunctionality should be approached carefully, adopting specific methodological steps that can limit some of its drawbacks e.g., incorporating the most important ecosystem services and weighting them based on stakeholders’ priorities (Neyret et al. 2021 ). In many cases, as suggested by Giling et al. ( 2018 ), the methods to assess ecosystem multifunctionality may need to be selected on a case‐by‐case basis developing tailored hypotheses, functions, and analytical methods (Giling et al. 2018 ). To conclude, the considerations of multiple ecosystem conditions and ecosystem services would enable a systematic deepening of our knowledge on the functions and services provided by VLs, advancing our capacity to manage them.

Promoting multidisciplinary research in viticulture

Our review highlighted the diverse disciplinary and methodological perspectives adopted in studying ecosystem conditions, ecosystem services, and the effects of climate change on VLs. Although VLs were also investigated by studies published in journals classified in the fields of economics, earth and planetary sciences, social sciences, and other fields, 78% of the reviewed papers have been published by the agricultural and biological sciences and by the environmental sciences for almost 20 years. For example, we found many papers that used a crop modeling approach to study the effects of climate change on yield (such as Fraga et al. 2019 ), or studies that used a landscape ecology lens to investigate the role of landscape composition in influencing pest control in VLs (such as Rusch et al. 2017 ). On the other hand, papers included in our sample and that were classified in the discipline category of multidisciplinary studies were rare and included only a few links.

The lack of multidisciplinary approaches in the study of the provision of ecosystem services has been reported in previous reviews about agricultural and other ecosystems (Tancoigne et al. 2014 ; Liquete et al. 2013 ; Vári et al. 2022 ). Indeed, applying multidisciplinarity is often difficult for several reasons: limited funding allocation due to a traditional academic structure that discourages multidisciplinary collaboration, practical challenges related to the management of resources and researchers, and methodological challenges related to the connection between disciplines or the use of established ways to approach a research theme (Pooley et al. 2014 ; Thompson et al. 2020 ; Dick et al. 2016 ). However, having a multidisciplinary approach is important considering the challenges that VLs will face due to climate change and the fact that these challenges are characterized by a high degree of complexity due to the interactions of climate change with other drivers of change (Lopez-Bustins et al. 2013 ; de Herralde et al. 2010 ).

To overcome the lack of multidisciplinarity in literature on VLs, communication between different disciplines should be fostered more. A first step towards this target would be the creation of a common vocabulary and shared definitions of the most important concepts that are relevant for VLs. In our review, we found that the concept of ecosystem services has not yet penetrated the journals of agronomy and biological sciences that deal with viticulture, and that some papers had no reference to this concept at all. For example, Fraga et al. ( 2016 ) and Gristina et al. ( 2019 ) studied crop production and carbon sequestration without explicitly considering them as ecosystem services. Where the ecosystem services concept is used explicitly, several different definitions and classifications are adopted, if specified at all. The same holds for ecosystem conditions, for which we had to rely on a general classification developed for studying agroecosystems at the European scale that we had to adapt to the specific case of viticulture (Maes et al. 2018 ). In fact, also in papers that included many ecosystem conditions, e.g., Thiéry et al. 2018 , we did not find any reference to a common definition or classification system. Future research should, therefore, lay down a shared definition of ecosystem conditions and services for VLs to facilitate a common understanding on these concepts and to advance our understanding of viticulture in a multidisciplinary perspective.

The combination of mixed methods in single studies is another approach that can foster the production of new multidisciplinary knowledge. This is facilitated when research is conducted by a heterogeneous team with different backgrounds (O’Cathain et al. 2008 ). In our review, we found nine studies that applied mixed methods coupling field observations with experiments or models, and three studies that coupled questionnaires with models or field observations. While the papers that coupled field observation with experiments or models were mainly doing this inside the boundaries of the same discipline, for example comparing results from a field survey with a controlled experiment in the same vineyard plot, the combination of models and questionnaires was done applying a ‘true’ multidisciplinary perspective. Some of the studies that coupled models and questionnaires shed light on specific aspects of VLs that would have been hardly grasped using a monodisciplinary focus. For example, Lereboullet et al. 2014 complemented present climate data and its projections with in-depth interviews of local stakeholders to analyze the adaptive capacity of the Languedoc–Roussillon winemaking region (FR). Holland and Smit 2014 applied a similar approach to evaluate the adaptation strategies that are employed by wine producers in Prince Edward County (CA). These methods can increase the knowledge of VLs as a socio-ecological system and can foster the adoption of strategies that support climate change adaptation. In addition, such multidisciplinary methods could be applied also to study other drivers that are increasingly threatening VLs, e.g., socio-economic pressures, land use change, and biodiversity loss (Viers et al. 2013 ; Hoppert et al. 2018 ). To conclude, adopting methods that are used in different disciplines, such as questionnaires and models, should be prioritized in the future, as they can increase the multidisciplinary knowledge on VLs.

Benefits of an integrative perspective

Our findings highlighted that integrative studies, i.e., studies that included climate change ecosystem conditions ecosystem services links, were underrepresented in the literature. Out of the total 476 links retrieved in our review, we found that only 78 were integrative. Of the fifteen studies that included integrative links, seven were literature reviews (including more than 50% of all the integrative links), and six were research papers. The ecosystem services addressed by such integrative studies were provisioning in 62% of the cases and regulating in 38%. Of the fifteen ecosystem conditions considered in this review, only eight were addressed in these types of studies.

To foster studies with an integrative perspective it would be important to better investigate some specific ecosystem conditions that have the potential to develop integrative knowledge. This is the case of ecosystem conditions such as the presence of animals and fungi, and vineyard soil that were considered in both climate change ecosystem conditions and ecosystem conditions ecosystem services links but were not addressed by integrative studies. Indeed, since knowledge about these two separate link types has been already produced for these ecosystem conditions, this knowledge can be the basis for developing an integrative understanding of the relationship between climate change attributes and ecosystem services. Another way to develop more integrative knowledge would be to study those ecosystem conditions and services that have not yet been assessed in studies featuring climate change ecosystem conditions ecosystem services links. For instance, ground cover conditions and local scale habitat conditions have never been studied in relation to both climate change attributes and ecosystem services, and we did not find any integrative link that included cultural ecosystem services. The inclusion of these conditions and services in integrative studies would complement the many studies already available on ecosystem conditions ecosystem services links, underlying the role of climate change in regulating such biophysical processes and ecosystem services provision.

Integrative research papers can provide critical information on the cascading effects that would be difficult to grasp focusing only on parts of the socio-ecological system, i.e., the other two link types (Falardeau and Bennett 2019 ). This knowledge allows researchers and decision makers to shed light on the functioning of each VL, supporting the development of strategies that can shape more resilient and sustainable VLs. This is particularly important in VLs that are often distinguished based on the concept of terroir, which defines the unique aspects of each growing region (Winkler et al. 2017 ). For example, those climate change ecosystem condition ecosystem service links that studied the effects of climate change on the climatic suitability of vines and the related effects on yield in specific winegrowing areas may constitute an entry point for the identification of possible adaptation options that take into consideration the complexity of each VL. This is the case of the study of Biasi et al. ( 2019 ), which characterized the genotypic‐specific response to climate change of a set of local and international vine varieties in the Umbria Region (IT) and thus enabled the development of viticultural practices in line with the local climate. Future studies on the specific consequences of climate change on ecosystem conditions and services should, therefore, be promoted to foster the development of tailored regional adaptation strategies.

Further developments

Although we mapped how extensively the relations between the VL components were studied, our approach did not quantify the impacts of climate change on the ecosystem conditions and services. Future studies could conduct a dedicated meta-analysis based on the data included in the literature. Future studies can also expand our approach including additional information on the relationships between ecosystem conditions, ecosystem services, and climate change in VLs by including possible feedbacks occurring between these components, as we considered only the description of direct effects of ecosystem conditions on ecosystem services, and of a set of climate change attributes on them. For example, we did not study the effects of ecosystem conditions on other ecosystem conditions, although, for instance, certain management practices may impact other sets of conditions by using fewer external inputs (e.g., in organic farming). These influences of the ecosystem conditions can boost the sustainability of a VL and increase the presence of beneficial organisms such as natural enemies of crop pests (Muneret et al. 2019 ). Even though we excluded human-interacting feedbacks in VLs, some of the reviewed papers considered specific socio-economic drivers together with climate change in the analysis of VLs (Bernardo et al. 2018 ; Castex et al. 2015 ; Neethling et al. 2017 ; Sgubin et al. 2019 ). In these papers, however, it was difficult to identify how such socio-economic drivers would affect the provision of ecosystem services in VLs. The use of system-thinking methods and tools such as causal loop diagrams and stock-flow models, which have been successfully applied to study complex problems related to agroecosystems, could be effective for analyzing the complexity of VLs including human dimensions (Sterman 2000 ; Turner et al. 2016 ; Walters et al. 2016 ). The application of these methods could promote a holistic understanding of agricultural landscapes, their environment, and food production, which will be essential to meet policy objectives such as the sustainable development goals (Ortiz et al. 2021 ).

Conclusions

VLs are important agroecosystems that provide multiple economic, environmental, and cultural ecosystem services. The literature on VLs, however, is missing a comprehensive, multidisciplinary, and integrative approach to the study of ecosystem services and conditions in the context of climate change. To fill this gap and to promote more multifunctional approaches in the study of VLs, future research should focus on the least studied ecosystem conditions (e.g., vineyard soil characteristics, vine variety) and services (e.g., cultural ecosystem services), with a focus on those key ecosystem conditions that are linked to the provision of multiple ecosystem services. In addition, more efforts should be put in developing common definitions for key ecosystem services and conditions in viticulture and in applying mixed methods to study VLs. This would foster the production of new knowledge that crosses the boundaries of single disciplines. Finally, to develop more integrative research on VLs, attention should be placed on the ecosystem conditions that can potentially link existing knowledge on climate change and on ecosystem services. The knowledge developed in such comprehensive, multidisciplinary, and integrative studies will help researchers and decision makers to gain a more complete understanding of agroecosystems’ overall functioning and to identify effective adaptation strategies that can support the sustainable management of VLs under future climate uncertainties.

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Acknowledgements

The authors would like to thank Matteo Dainese for his valuable comments on a draft of this manuscript and Rachele Carloni for formatting figures and tables.The authors thank the Department of Innovation, Research and University of the Autonomous Province of Bozen/Bolzano for covering the Open Access publication costs.

This work was supported by the European Regional Development Fund through the Interreg Alpine Space Program (‘AlpES | Alpine Ecosystem Services – mapping, maintenance, management’, project number ASP 183; ‘LUIGI | Linking Urban and Inner-alpine Green Infrastructure’, project number ASP 863); and the Interreg V-A ITA-AUT program (REBECKA, project number ITAT1002). LEV acknowledges funding from the foundation Stiftung Südtiroler Sparkasse. KJW acknowledges the support of the Natural Sciences and Engineering Research Council of Canada (NSERC), (funding reference number NSERC NETGP 523374-18).

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Candiago, S., Winkler, K.J., Giombini, V. et al. An ecosystem service approach to the study of vineyard landscapes in the context of climate change: a review. Sustain Sci 18 , 997–1013 (2023). https://doi.org/10.1007/s11625-022-01223-x

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Reasons for the rise in alcohol levels in Naoussa PDO wines.

Yiannis Karakasis MW

Wine lists in quality sushi restaurants in Tokyo: the status quo and opportunities for change.

Kenichi Ohashi MW

Back to the Future: determination of Superior Parcels within a VDP.Grosse Lage through a comparison of historical sources with current scientific measures.

Janek Schumann MW

An investigation into how UK bricks and mortar independent wine merchants use websites to complement their retail shops.

Emma Symington MW

The effect on consumer purchasing decisions of profiling wines by the Finnish alcohol monopoly Alko’s flavour types. (RP NOT AVAILABLE FOR DISSEMINATION DUE TO COMMERCIAL/SENSITIVE DATA)  

Taina Vilkuna MW

Attitudes of the NYC Wine Trade towards Finger Lakes Cabernet Franc.

Mollie Battenhouse MW

Does glassware have an impact on the sensory perception of Champagne? An investigation into the relative influences of physico-chemical and psychological processes in the sensory perception of two Pinot Noir-dominant Brut NV champagnes.

Victoria MacKenzie MW

Ingredient labelling on wine: an investigation into Irish consumer attitudes.

Lynne Coyle MW 

Does premium Franconian Silvaner (PFS) have enough sustainable advantages and producer support to justify its expensive vineyard plantings in the future?

Romana Echensperger MW

How have trends in the publication of consumer wine books changed since 1914, and how does this inform their present prospects?

Richard Hemming MW

An assessment of Retailer and Sommelier attitudes toward VQA Sparkling Wine in Ontario.

Eugene Mlynczyk MW

The Australian fine wine consumer online: involvement, characteristics, motivation and associated behaviour in the fine wine off-premise wine market. 

Andrea Pritzker MW

Clos de la Roche: the creation of a Grand Cru. 

Ying Tan MW 

What is the relative importance when using a member’s (amateur’s) positive review versus an expert’s positive review on sales within The Wine Society? (RP NOT AVAILABLE FOR DISSEMINATION DUE TO COMMERCIAL/SENSITIVE DATA)

Sarah Knowles MW

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PhD thesis. Fermenting Place: Wine production and terroir in McLaren Vale, South Australia

This thesis provides an ethnographic exploration of McLaren Vale, a wine-producing region lying just south of the city of Adelaide, South Australia. As a near-urban agricultural area, McLaren Vale provides the setting for a number of complex debates about land use, landscape values, cultural heritage and regional identity. Contemporary perspectives on dwelling, place, and landscape contribute to the theoretical background of this study. In particular, this thesis is framed by notions of ‘terroir’, a term common in winegrowing and used to refer to the ‘sense of place’ that may be tasted in wine from particular locations. I contend that the particular terroir perspective taken by winegrowers in McLaren Vale is shaped by a globalised wine industry discourse as well as the locally-specific experiences of farming and winemaking in the region. Discourses of terroir describe the ways people and landscape, nature and culture, interrelate to produce geographically and socially-emplaced products. As an anthropological concept, terroir might also be used to explicate the ways by which the processes of production serve not only to produce agricultural products, but places and persons themselves. Terroir is significant not only in the way it is deployed discursively but as a tacit dimension of winegrowing and, indeed, being. In the body of the thesis I explore different aspects of McLaren Vale’s terroir, encompassing local as well as broader regional and global processes, and focusing on the way these are embodied by and in people and places. The six substantive chapters deal with the historical and political-economic construction of McLaren Vale as a region; understandings of ‘locality’ and being local entails; terroir as it is expressed in winegrowing; the significance of temporality and rhythm; the role of embodied, sensorial engagement in placemaking; and the relationship of ‘city’ and ‘country’ in the imagining of McLaren Vale and its boundaries. Dominant approaches to terroir in McLaren Vale are relational and processual, emphasising an ongoing dynamism of relations between people, landscape, and production, and that this is the way many people understand, experience and represent their own dwelling. This perspective encourages a view of McLaren Vale as a ‘living landscape’ imbued not only with productive power but productive potential, in which people, vines, animals, soil, microbes, and a host of other beings are mutually implicated. This, I argue, is reflected not only in regional wine production, but also in the orientations local people take to broader issues relating to landscape and land use.

Related Papers

Emotions, senses, spaces: ethnographic engagements and intersections (Hemer, S. and Dundon, A., eds.)

William Skinner

This chapter argues that the tasks and processes of wine production undertaken by small-scale producers not only serve to bring forth or unlock a 'sense of place' in the wine but can also be seen to continuously produce place itself. In the skilled performance of these tasks, winegrowers engage intimately with the world around them at a sensorial level: including touching the soil and the vines, feeling the sun, wind and rain in the vineyard, smelling and feeling the warmth of the fermenting grapes, and tasting the wine at different stages of its production. For many, such physical interaction (hands-on doing) is extremely desirable in wine production, as wine's 'authenticity' is often considered to relate to the close interaction of people and place working in concert. It is this sort of deep and attentive sensorial engagement of people with their worlds, over time, that provides not only practical and intellectual 'knowledge' but also a rich topography of feelings and emotions attached to places and landscapes. I argue that the production of this sort of emotional space, via the hands-on tasks and activities of small-scale wine production, is a crucial element in the development among many such winegrowers of a relational or animic perspective, through which they see themselves, their vines, wines and other aspects of their worlds as fundamentally intertwined and interrelated. Wines, vines and wine places are thus invested with 'meanings' and 'emotions' — social products which are nevertheless linked inextricably to the sensuous materiality of production and consumption.

The Australian Journal of Anthropology

In the wine‐producing region of McLaren Vale, South Australia, the development of a detailed geology map has worked to increase understandings about the physical diversity of vineyard land. I argue that the production and deployment of social/scientific knowledge through the map is instrumental in strategic imaginings of the viticultural space of McLaren Vale. Ethnographic examination of ‘District Tastings’ of single‐vineyard Shiraz wines shows how the geology map provides a framework for understanding and promoting relationships between vineyard geology and wine flavours. This process feeds into debates over possible delineation of official winemaking ‘subregions’, which may provide a mechanism for the generation of economic value based on discourses of quality and distinctiveness. The map's depiction of geological diversity is embraced by wine producers, who seek to add value to their product through appeals to a purported uniqueness, scarcity or specialness based on geological terroir.

Journal of Political Ecology

This article provides a detailed ethnographic intervention to the phenomenon of value-added agriculture, a discourse that has attained several concrete forms in Australian wine industry policy, and which is routinely presented as a legitimate rural future in wider agricultural and social science research. The legal and policy architecture of 'Geographical Indications' purports to value the regional distinctiveness of agricultural areas, by creating legally-defined wine regions. Producers from these wine regions enjoy privileged access to the use of regional descriptors that apply to their products, and the constitution of such wine regions can also codify the relationships between this regional identity and concrete viticultural and winemaking practices. This article draws on ethnographic research within the Clare Valley region of South Australia, one of the first Australian wine regions to be formally constituted as a legal entity, to examine in close detail the relationships that this region's wine producers have with their own discrete areas of operation. These ethnographic illustrations highlight that the creation of economic value within the premium wine industry cannot be reduced to the technical aspects of viticulture and oenology, nor the legal and policy means by which relationships between products and land are codified. Rather, the nuanced social understandings of landscape that wine producers are consistently developing is a critical element of cultural and commercial infrastructure that affords any wine producer or grape grower the possibility of achieving monopolistic relationships over discrete vineyard areas and the wine that is produced from them. These social understandings have a specifically egalitarian character that acts as a hedge against the chronic uncertainties arising from the global economic environment in which premium wine industry is inescapably a part. This resistance to codification, I argue, is a productive space that constitutes a form of resilience against chronically unstable sets of commercial and environmental conditions. Cet article fournit une intervention ethnographique détaillée au phénomène de «l'agriculture à valeur ajoutée», un discours qui a atteint plusieurs formes concrètes dans l'industrie vinicole australienne. Dans les sciences agricoles et sociales il est systématiquement présenté comme un avenir rural légitime. L'architecture juridique et politique des «indications géographiques» a pour but de valoriser le caractère distinctif régional des zones agricoles, en créant des terroirs de vin légalement définis. Les producteurs de ces terroirs bénéficient d'un accès privilégié à l'utilisation des appellations qui s'appliquent à leurs vins, et la constitution de ces terroirs peut aussi codifier les relations entre cette identité régionale et les pratiques viticoles concrètes. Cet article s'appuie sur la recherche ethnographique dans le terroir de la vallée de la Clare en Australie-Méridionale, l'une des premières régions viticoles australiennes à être formellement constituée en personne morale pour examiner de près les relations que les producteurs de vin de cette région ont avec leurs propres territoires. Ces illustrations ethnographiques mettent en évidence que la création de valeur économique au sein de l'industrie viticole ne peut se réduire aux aspects techniques de la viticulture et de l'oenologie, ni aux moyens juridiques et politiques de codification des relations entre produits et terres. Au contraire, la compréhension sociale nuancée du paysage que les producteurs de vins développent est un élément essentiel de l'infrastructure culturelle et commerciale. Elle donne à tout viticulteur la possibilité d'établir des relations monopolistiques sur les vignobles distincts et sur le vin. Ces compréhensions sociales ont un caractère spécifiquement égalitaire qui fournit une certaine sécurité contre les incertitudes chroniques découlant de l'environnement économique mondial dans lequel l'industrie du vin fonctionne. La résistance à la codification, je constat, offre une résilience contre l'instabilité chronique des conditions commerciales et environnementales. Este artículo ofrece una detallada intervención etnográfica del fenómeno de la agricultura de valor agregado, un discurso que ha alcanzado numerosas formas concretas de las políticas en la industria vitivinícola australiana, la cual se presenta como el legítimo porvenir rural de una más amplia investigación en ciencias sociales y agrícolas. La arquitectura legal y de las políticas de las " denominaciones de origen " pretenden dar valor a la particularidad regional de las áreas agrícolas con la creación y definición legal de regiones productoras de vino. Los productores de estas regiones vitivinícolas disfrutan de un acceso privilegiado del uso de los descriptores que aplican para sus productos, y la constitución de dichas regiones puede también codificar las relaciones entre esta identidad regional y las prácticas de viticultura y elaboración del vino. A través de trabajo etnográfico en la región de Clare Valley al sur de Australia-una de las primeras regiones vitivinícolas del país constituidas como entidades oficiales-, este artículo examina a detalle la relación que tienen los productores regionales con sus distintas áreas de operación. Estos ejemplos etnográficos resaltan que la creación de valor económico dentro de la industria del vino de alta calidad no puede reducirse a los aspectos técnicos de la viticultura y enología. Tampoco a los medios legales y de políticas por los cuales las relaciones entre productos y la tierra están codificadas. Al contrario, los matices en la visión social del escenario que los productores vitícolas están constantemente desarrollando, es un elemento crítico de la infraestructura cultural y comercial que ofrece a cualquier productor de vino o de uva la posibilidad de desarrollar relaciones monopólicas sobre los propios viñedos y el vino que en estos se produce. Estas visiones sociales tienen un específico carácter igualitario que actúa como una cubierta contra las incertidumbres que constantemente surgen del ambiente económico global en que la industria del vino de calidad está irremediablemente involucrada. Argumento que esta resistencia a la codificación es un espacio productivo que constituye una forma de resiliencia contra las constantemente inestables condiciones comerciales y medioambientales.

John Overton

Journal of New Zealand Studies

Peter Howland

Introduction I definitely come to Martinborough to get away from the hassles of life in Wellington. I have a stressful job in town and when we drive over the hill I see the whole of the Wairarapa open up before me and I feel my whole body relax. One of the first things I do when we arrive is hop on the swing in the backyard and just swing. It’s sort of a ritual of getting in touch with my inner child, leaving behind all the stress (Martinborough holiday home owner, mid-40s, female, Wellington resident). Martinborough, a small boutique ‘wine village’ approximately one hour’s drive from Wellington, the capital city of New Zealand, is a popular holiday destination for the capital’s affluent, tertiary-educated and urbane middle classes. Many of the tourists I studied, aside from desiring an in-situ ‘vineyard experience’ and a relaxing ‘time out’ from city life, were also drawn by romanticised notions of rural life, by the prospects of consuming Martinborough’s renowned wines and other cosmopolitan offerings (e.g. luxury accommodation), and by the likelihood of enjoying ‘quality time’ with friends and lovers. Martinborough’s holidaymakers thus aspired to endeavours that were popularly associated with both the rural and the metropolitan. In some respects, the tourists’ desires resonate back to the original Arcadia, the prototypical rural idyll believed to be the foundation of agriculture and domesticated animals, art, music, literature and collaborative community, and a necessary precursor to the evolution of Greek civilisation. Specifically, however, Martinborough’s tourists desired experiences that, in part, emphasised core dispositions of middle-class distinction and reflexive individuality (i.e. self-referential/motivated personhood). A full discussion of this complex, mutually constitutive nexus is beyond the scope of this article. Instead I briefly discuss Martinborough’s historical development as a ‘wine village’ and outline the entangled fundamentals of the tourists’ rural and ‘metro-rural’ idylls, middle-class distinction and ‘ideal reflexive individuality’. I also examine how specific aspects of the rural idyll – the picturesque and the biographised artisanship of rural production – respectively provided ideological endorsement for the tourists’ urbane, ephemeral consumption of wine and for the individualised ‘cult of the winemaker’.

María del Carmen Salas Quesada

International Conference on Tourism Research

Helena Albuquerque

Verde wine has a traditional and unique range of patterns and processes of cultivation that result from the interactions between communities and environments. The result of this interaction characterizes the local wine culture and rural landscape and creates diversity of characteristics developed through times. In this context, vineyard historical landscape assures the range of differentiation of rural places and contributes to the image of wine as a cultural asset based on the cultural heritage accumulation and the slow transformation of the landscapes. Safeguard this historical resilient landscape could reinforce the local character in his own unicity, authenticity, significance, diversity as a testimony of identity. Safeguard the historical wine landscape promotes the preservation of old techniques and fragile tangible and intangible heritage condemned to disappearance with the new standardized exploitations. In this context, this study identifies the values of Verde wine landsca...

María del Carmen Cañizares Ruiz

Vine cultivation has a strong territorial character derived from the environmental, social, cultural and economic interactions with the space in which the vines are grown. In Spain, this activity is clearly representative of Mediterranean agrarian landscapes, where vineyards have a dynamic and multifunctional character, as a consequence of the social and economic processes that they have always incorporated. This character is also complex as it has natural and anthropic components. The links between vineyards and territories drive the configuration of identity-based feelings in local communities, which identify with the work, rituals and symbols that are present in the production and manufacturing processes. Therefore, territorial identity is a strategic key for the necessary revalorisation of endogenous resources, and it is a factor of territorial development, as well as an element that is needed to reaffirm the multifunctional character of the winemaking system. The aim of this pa...

Owain Jones

Abstract. In this paper we seek to develop the concept of dwelling as a means of theorising place and landscape.We do this for two interconnected reasons. First, dwelling has come to the fore recently as an approach to nature, place, and landscape, but we argue that further development of this idea is required in order to address issues relating to romantic views of places, authenticity, localness, and the way we `see' landscapes. Second, we turn to the notion of dwelling to develop interconnected views of the world which can still retain a notion of place, a key but problematic concept within geography, landscape studies, and environmental thinking. In particular, we seek to develop ideas of place within the context of actor network theory.We explore the notion of dwelling in Heidegger and as adapted by Ingold, and we trace how dwelling has been deployed subsequently in studies of landscape and place. We then develop a more critical appreciation of dwelling in the context of an orchard in Somerset which we have researched as a place of hybrid constructions of culture and nature.

New Zealand Geographer

Scott Sharpe

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Google still mixed up on Beach Road

Although Google now labels Beach Road in Vineyard Haven correctly on its online Maps service, some mistakes persist nearly a week after it mislabled the road.

On Monday, users of the Street View feature within Google Maps still saw Beach Road incorrectly named Anchor Way. 

And Maps showed at least one business — The Net Result take-out restaurant on Beach Road in Vineyard Haven — as located on Beach Road in Edgartown. 

The continuing confusion comes even though the Vineyard Haven Business Association first learned of the errors last Tuesday. Local business owners expressed concern that the Google Maps mix-ups, as well as incorrect addresses on Google Search, could confuse customers as the summer season nears.

Google has not responded to multiple requests for comment. 

Google Maps’ initial error followed an Oak Bluffs planning board decision in March to rename a small street as Anchor Way. This minor street, formerly named Beach Road Extension, was renamed because ambulances, trucks and other drivers had confused it with larger, similarly named Vineyard locations.

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On Her Second Chance to Swipe, She ‘Finally Got It Right’

Alexandra Voyatzakis was initially reluctant to connect with Pontus Henriksson, but a few months later, when she had the opportunity again, she took it.

By Jenny Block

When Alexandra Vasilia Voyatzakis first saw Pontus Mikael Henriksson on the dating app Bumble in the summer of 2018, she did not swipe right, but not because he wasn’t her type. (He definitely was.)

“I distinctly remember seeing his face,” said Ms. Voyatzakis, noting that she had found him attractive. But she was also worried. She had an unfortunate dating history when it came to dating handsome men, which her friends often referred to as “model-y types,” she said. Those relationships always failed.

But when she saw Mr. Henriksson appear in her search again in early January 2019, she decided to give him a swipe. The two matched that very same day.

“I remember thinking that she was absolutely gorgeous, but I was intimidated,” Mr. Henriksson said. “She had this attitude. But then we matched and we messaged and I was like, ‘This girl is so sweet.’ We started messaging all the time.”

Five days later, they spoke on the phone for the first time. “The second I heard her voice, I was like, ‘wow, this is something,’” Mr. Henriksson said.

In mid-January 2019, they went on their first date, which was drinks at Primo’s in Manhattan’s TriBeCa neighborhood. “We only had two drinks each, and yet sat there talking for five hours,” Ms. Voyatzakis said. “We didn’t want it to end.”

That night, Ms. Voyatzakis wrote in her journal, “I finally got it right.”

Their second and third dates were delayed until February because Mr. Henriksson had surgery to remove his wisdom teeth. And their fourth date had to wait until early March as he was traveling in Italy on vacation in late February.

But the two became exclusive on that fourth date. Saying “I love you” followed in April. And in May 2019, Mr. Henriksson began spending every night at Ms. Voyatzakis’s apartment in the Chelsea neighborhood of Manhattan, before making it official in February 2020, after his lease in Jersey City, N.J., was up. The couple now live in Brooklyn Heights.

Ms. Voyatzakis, 37, who grew up in the Boston suburbs, sells antiques and vintage items through her business, Alekka. She has a bachelor’s degree in English from Emmanuel College in Boston.

Mr. Henriksson, 33, is a revenue accounting operations manager at Spotify in New York. He has a bachelor’s degree in accountancy from California State University in Los Angeles and a certified public accountant license in New York. He grew up in Tyreso, Sweden, just outside of Stockholm.

Ms. Voyatzakis had always wanted to get engaged in Italy, because of her affinity for the country. It didn’t hurt that she has a deep love for historic buildings. “She got me into historic homes,” Mr. Henriksson said. “We visit them in New York.”

In early 2021, thinking that a marriage proposal couldn’t be too far off, the couple together designed a diamond engagement ring for Ms. Voyatzakis. But the pandemic was making European travel a challenge.

So, on July 27, 2021, during a trip to the Hamptons, Mr. Henriksson proposed to Ms. Voyatzakis using that ring at Wölffer Estate, a vineyard in Sagaponack, N.Y. “Not historic,” Mr. Henriksson said, “but it looked like an Italian vineyard.”

[Click here to binge read this week’s featured couples.]

The couple married on April 26 at the Office of the City Clerk in Manhattan by Guohuan Zhang, supervisor and officiant of the Marriage Bureau. Mr. Henriksson said it was surreal, “to marry the love of my life, in the city where we met, not too far from where we had our first date.”

In attendance were Ms. Voyatzakis’s parents and a cousin, Gregory S. Kamelakis, who served as their photographer, as well as the couple’s dog, Lily, a Morkie.

“During our photos, a bus filled with non-U. S. high school students pulled up and filed out and all began clapping and cheering,” Ms. Voyatzakis said. “It was so adorable.”

A larger, three-day celebration in Greece, where Ms. Voyatzakis’s family is from, will follow over the Memorial Day weekend. “We consider that our official wedding,” Ms. Voyatzakis said.

The event, with 80 guests expected to attend, will include a symbolic ceremony, led by Mr. Kamelakis, at a 19th-century property called the Queen’s Tower, a former royal estate near Athens, which the couple pointed out, is perfect for history enthusiasts.

“Since our wedding in Greece will be somewhat large, we felt like this gave us some time to be quiet and take it all in,” Ms. Voyatzakis said. “Having our dog Lily with us was the cherry on top of it all as she won’t be making the journey to Greece with us.”

Weddings Trends and Ideas

Keeping Friendships Intact: The soon-to-be-married couple and their closest friends might experience stress and even tension leading up to their nuptials. Here’s how to avoid a friendship breakup .

‘Edible Haute Couture’: Bastien Blanc-Tailleur, a luxury cake designer based in Paris, creates opulent confections for high-profile clients , including European royalty and American socialites.

Reinventing a Mexican Tradition: Mariachi, a soundtrack for celebration in Mexico, offers a way for couples to honor their heritage  at their weddings.

Something Thrifted: Focused on recycled clothing , some brides are finding their wedding attire on vintage sites and at resale stores.

Brand Your Love Story: Some couples are going above and beyond to personalize their weddings, with bespoke party favors and custom experiences for guests .

Going to Great Lengths : Mega wedding cakes are momentous for reasons beyond their size — they are part of an emerging trend of extremely long cakes .

Education | Oakland teen has been accepted to 122 colleges…

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Education | Oakland teen has been accepted to 122 colleges with $5.3 million in scholarships. His choice came down to his love of music

Helms Ategeka wants to be a pop star. But when he told his dad he planned to pursue a music degree after his graduation next month from high school, his father wasn’t exactly thrilled.

So last fall, the Oakland, California, teenager took a different approach: He started applying to colleges. More than 150 of them.

Before long, he got an acceptance letter. Then another. And another. The trickle became a flood until there were 122 of them — along with some $5.3 million in proposed grants and scholarship offers. (CNN has viewed the acceptance letters.)

His father says he’s proud of Helms’ 3.94 GPA and had hoped his son would pick a career with financial stability, like medicine or computer technology. Or maybe Helms might follow in his own footsteps as a mechanical engineering graduate from the University of California, Berkeley.

But as he watched the mountain of acceptance letters in his son’s room get bigger with every mail delivery, Chris Ategeka’s hope dimmed. The messages on the multicolored envelopes beckoned with undeniable enthusiasm. “You’re in!” one said. “Our family welcomes your family! read another.

“He’s so confident that music is what he wants to do, it would be a disservice for me to try to guide him otherwise … that’s why he applied to a gazillion colleges to prove a point,” Ategeka says. “I told him, ‘You want to be a musician? It takes a lot of hard work.’ And his reaction was, I’ll use my determination to do this to show you how hard I can work.”

But how does an 18-year-old begin narrowing down such a massive list of options? And so began a journey that came with tough lessons on change and compromise — for both father and son.

He had a key requirement for the colleges he applied to

Helms’ life revolves around music. At Head-Royce High School in Oakland he’s part of an a cappella group that meets every week to belt out covers of popular pop music. His room is stacked with CDs by Beyoncé, Prince and Bruno Mars. Before he starts college in the fall, he’s taking a summer trip to Peru with a choir to perform in churches and communities.

“I live for music. I spend most of my time either listening to music, making music or out there performing,” Helms says. “I feel the most alive and fulfilled when I’m doing something related to music.”

So when he started his college application journey, he had one key requirement: The school needed to have a strong music program.

He mostly used universities’ online portals for his applications, he says, which made it easier to copy and paste his information to multiple places. His father paid the application fee required by some universities. Helms spent many hours writing essays for different schools, although most were variations of the same personal story. In his essays, he highlighted his passion for music and his background as an immigrant.

A small group of schools, including Brown, Wesleyan and Colgate, rejected him or placed him on their waiting list.

But the much longer list of schools that said yes spans the country, from big state universities to smaller private colleges: Bard College, Drexel, Howard, Loyola Marymount, Sarah Lawrence College — and yes, UC Berkeley.

He moved to the US just before the pandemic shut down everything

Ategeka immigrated to the US from his homeland in Uganda in late 2000s to attend the University of California, Berkeley. He left Helms with his mother in the western Ugandan town of Fort Portal , where he lived until he joined his father in California five years ago.

Soon after Helms came to the US in 2019, the world largely shut down due to the coronavirus pandemic. He attended his new school via Zoom and missed out on a big part of interacting with others and learning the nuances of American culture. As a result, he wasn’t sure his college applications would resonate or meet a lot of the requirements, he says.

“I gave it my all with the application process. I reached out to the schools to make sure that they’ve received my application and made sure I gave my essays my best shot. But I did not expect so many schools to say yes, so I was not prepared,” Helms says.

His modern drama teacher, Ricky Lapidus, is not surprised that Helms has received so many offers.

“Helms loves learning — he’s interested in other people as much as he is in grades,” says Lapidus, head of the Upper School at Head-Royce High School. “He is a deeply empathetic person and that’s how he approaches school — how do I learn more so I can understand others more? What makes him stand out for a college is a combination of his brains, sure, but also his joy and willingness to explore new things.”

He used his father’s words against him

He’s watched videos of their music programs on YouTube and TikTok to get a sense of where he fits in. And most importantly, he’s had candid conversations with his father about the realities of a career in music.

“As an immigrant parent, I was thinking, ‘How are you going to pay your bills?’ But he’s a driven kid … and he used my words against me,” Ategeka says.

Through this process, Ategeka says he realized he was viewing his son’s academic quest through what he describes as an “African immigrant mentality” that prioritizes certain lucrative careers as markers of success.

“I always tell him that he can be whatever he wants to be and can do anything he puts his mind to. And he was like, ‘Yeah, this is what I really want to do.’”

Ategeka says he’s slowly been embracing his son’s dream to study music and become a pop singer. He says he still worries about his future, because he knows how difficult it is to become famous enough to earn a living from your talent.

But he admires Helms’ determination and focus, as does his mother in Uganda. Chris Ategeka says his son proved he’s serious about a music career by getting accepted to so many colleges.

“ He is really highlighting the idea that he’s not a kid who is failing out of school or running away from home to live in the subway to make the music thing work,” Ategeka says.

“He’s sent the message that, ‘I know I’m smart. I got the grades. I can get into college. I can do whatever I want. But this is my passion, this is my drive, this is what I chose.”

His college choice has a connection to his dad

After months of research, Helms made his choice: He will stay nearby and study music at his dad’s alma mater, UC Berkeley. A spokesperson for Berkeley confirmed that he’s been accepted.

“I created a spreadsheet, and I wrote out the pros and the cons for each of the schools and really tried to weigh my priorities,” he says. “If I would like to be close to home, what kind of program each school has or doesn’t have, that kind of stuff.”

Watching social media videos of the schools’ concerts and other musical events revealed the quality and diversity of the programs offered, which helped in making his decision, he says. Videos of musical events at Berkeley had a certain joie de vivre, he says, which helped him see himself there. The school also has a wide variety of musical programs, including African music ensembles and a brass quintet.

As an immigrant, Helms is part of a growing demographic. Children born abroad or in the US to an immigrant parent accounted for 58% of the increase in the nation’s college enrollment between 2000 and 2018, a study by the Migration Policy Institute shows. “The face of US higher education is changing,” the study says. “Students are more likely to come from immigrant families than in the past.”

Helms’ new chapter comes at a precarious time for US colleges and universities as Berkeley and other schools grapple with the aftermath of pro-Palestinian student protests that have led to disruptions, arrests and debates about the limits of free speech.

But Ategeka says his son’s journey has reminded him to be open to new possibilities and ways of thinking. He believes Helms will find appropriate ways to be a part of difficult campus conversations.

“College is not about conforming to status quo … it is ground zero for training leaders who shape the future. It is in college that the young minds rethink the old and build the new for humanity and our planet,” he says.

Helms is excited to follow in his father’s footsteps at Berkeley, which has an admission rate of about 12% . Of the nearly 126,000 students who applied in fall of 2023, only about 15,000 were accepted.

But most importantly, he says, he’s looking forward to taking the next step toward being a professional musician.

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